Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I didn't relise u were their! Did I speak to u still trying to put faces to names

We rocked up a 2:20 and the bistro had closed, so we went to maccas instead. We didn't meet each other, because we couldn't find anyone, it was dead inside haha

We didn't go with the main group we were probably an hour behind you guys.

Put my boost gauge in, didn't read right

pulled it apart and i think the seals and o-rings are gone so i'll have to go somewhere for new ones :(

Why worry about it?

Buy something a bit newer; there's accurate stepper motor gauges for cheap prices.

Why worry about it?

Buy something a bit newer; there's accurate stepper motor gauges for cheap prices.

I like the look of it tho, should be fixable with less than $5 of o-ring seals too

Changed radiator, belts and hoses. Just gotta put that fuggin under tray back on.

No under tray here.Mine came loose and folded underneath the car when i was driving,so i thought the f**ker can stay off.

Fair enough, don't forget to check accuracy once it's back together.

Hope it all goes well.

Will do, i greased up the old seals and put them back in in the hope of reviving it and it worked for about 30 seconds

I'm pretty sure its the seals in the dial mechanism that are causing the biggest problems

I might think about disabling that part of it

I'll take some photos later if i take it apart again

No under tray here.Mine came loose and folded underneath the car when i was driving,so i thought the f**ker can stay off.

HA! I mainly left it off so I could see leaks, now I've become lazy and really CANNOT BE FU*KED!.

HA! I mainly left it off so I could see leaks, now I've become lazy and really CANNOT BE FU*KED!.

The undertray creates a low pressure area in the engine bay, which radically improves airflow through the rad and clears excess heat from the engine bay.

It may not make a noticeable right now; but come summer, it will.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...