Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

S1 Dayz.

Pic of the freshly painted brakes, because I just worked out that I can attach files using an iPad (yeah, yeah: I'm a slow adopter...)

Still have to tidy up around the engine bay: that wiring is embarassing... but you get the idea.post-39451-0-64102700-1377560237_thumb.jpgpost-39451-0-92587600-1377560277_thumb.jpg

Just received my Synx 6000, LS90 (diff oil) and bought some semi-syn gearbox oil the other day

Time for some loving for the stag

Oh, and polished the bonnet and roof the other day

My qutar window vents [what i guess you call them] started to flake so i decided rather then risk breaking them by pulling them of to respray i would cheat and plasti dip them insted [also alot cheaper seeing as i had left over and easier]

 *snip*

Hahaha every time i come into this thread i see one of my next mods all listed out.

I was going to do this exact same thing; also on silver stag...

:lol:

Hahaha every time i come into this thread i see one of my next mods all listed out.I was going to do this exact same thing; also on silver stag...:lol:

Twins...lol

  • Like 1

I think 13kms out of a rebuild is a good enough reason to look for a different engine builder. id expect a free rebuild on the 2nd one for that effort.


6th booking part one: never actually made it onto the dyno due to bottom end knock: engine had spun a bearing 13km after rebuild

S1 Dayz.

Pic of the freshly painted brakes, because I just worked out that I can attach files using an iPad (yeah, yeah: I'm a slow adopter...)

Still have to tidy up around the engine bay: that wiring is embarassing... but you get the idea.attachicon.gifimage.jpgattachicon.gifimage.jpg

I have been trying to figure out how to do this but can't get anywhere ( attach photos ) how did you do it.

I think 13kms out of a rebuild is a good enough reason to look for a different engine builder. id expect a free rebuild on the 2nd one for that effort.

...And that's exactly how it panned out...

I have been trying to figure out how to do this but can't get anywhere ( attach photos ) how did you do it.

Have to use the full site, then go to "more reply options", and you can attach from camera roll.

no idea if it works from iphone: too pokey, so I cbf trying.

Synx 6000 in - happy days

2+ hours rolling around the floor only to undo one fill plug for the rear diff - sad panda

who decided to make gearboxes and diffs so shit to put oil into?!?!

I think i'll pay someone to do this job

oh, and one of my headlights is out :(

fingers crossed it just the bulb

anyone have the link to the place selling the philips bulbs for a reasonable price?

Synx 6000 in - happy days

2+ hours rolling around the floor only to undo one fill plug for the rear diff - sad panda

who decided to make gearboxes and diffs so shit to put oil into?!?!

I think i'll pay someone to do this job

On my M35, it's easy :w00t:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
×
×
  • Create New...