Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I miss the stock turbo's response sometimes. On the other hand the engine now gets run through a larger rpm range, for better or worse. I could basically run the car under 3000rpm all the time. The hi flow is very much on light duty for what is essentially a stock replacement.

Urgently needed some pads for my 330mm D2 brakes and fitted some unknown street pads - lasted just one track day at Hampton Downs! Will go to Race Brakes and get something better...

Racebrakes sold me some Pagid pads which I will fit now and then take the old pads to them for a street lining which I will then put in the car and save the Pagids for track days.

Had a smoke test done on my car today to confirm why it's making a strange hissing sound from the intake side when on boost, and confirmed that the gasket between the top and bottom halves of the intake plenum is leaking. Hopefully once this is sorted, it will also reveal why my power and torque curves flatline at around 5,400rpm and max out at 235rwkW. Should be capable of at least another 30kW with the latest round of mods.

The proper (Turbosmart style) ball valves actually work in a similar way as the electronic controller, and they do a great job of holding boost pressure off the actuator until the desired boost is reached.

I still prefer an electronic controller for the simple fact they have an overboost warning, and the ability to run a 4 or 5 port MAC valve.

Looks good Toby. :)

Thanks Scott

your help and being available to discuss any entry level issues have allowed for a direct and proven modification pathway.this stops money been thrown away several times on the R & D rollacoaster of fortune or fail...

P.S attempting to knock over as many mods at home here so hopefully theres less time spent on your hoist and whilst At your performance Garage.

The proper (Turbosmart style) ball valves actually work in a similar way as the electronic controller, and they do a great job of holding boost pressure off the actuator until the desired boost is reached.

I still prefer an electronic controller for the simple fact they have an overboost warning, and the ability to run a 4 or 5 port MAC valve.

Looks good Toby. :)

Thanks Scott

your help and being available to discuss any entry level issues have allowed for a direct and proven modification pathway.this stops money been thrown away several times on the R & D rollacoaster of fortune or fail...

P.S attempting to knock over as many mods at home here so hopefully theres less time spent on your hoist and whilst At your performance Garage.

Maybe then I can bring the whip and junior along to.

post-123793-13854049013075_thumb.jpg

Edited by TM35

I'm not sure this should be in the 'what have you done to your stagea lately' rather than 'what will you be doing to your stagea soon' but I'd prefer not to start a new thread.

n00b alert

Quick question - I've warped my front rotars and will be getting new calipers at the same time. I'm about to get my hands on RDA slotted front rotors 296mm by 30mm for my nm35 - the seller is saying they suit R34 GT-T but I beleive the GT-T came out with 310mm by 30mm and the R34 GT came out with the 296mm.

Should I be asking the wreckers for front GT-T calipers or GT calipers. My knowledge of brake system is zilch to none.

Years ago when I used to come on here, I think I remember people buying the V35 Skyline GT cat-back exhausts as a cheap direct replacement for the NM35s big heavy resonator. Am I remembering correctly? what about the 350z exhaust - that also works but needs a minor mod?

Edited by Drogba

I think you are correct James, it's the larger disks you will need. Best to ring GSL rallysport, they know their brakes backwards.

I have a decent cat back here atm... How loud are you wanting though?

Just sent back front set of RDA brand 296mm (doah!) to change for the correct 310mm to suit a 2nd hand set of R34 GTT callipers ive purchased threw just jap after they measured up to a front cut NM35 they had sitting there apparently straight boltup.RDA Dimple drilled & slotted items via ebay also were a very competitive priced for brand new, a new set of Intima SR street/circuit rated pads will bite into them.

Just sent back front set of RDA brand 296mm (doah!) to change for the correct 310mm to suit a 2nd hand set of R34 GTT callipers ive purchased threw just jap after they measured up to a front cut NM35 they had sitting there apparently straight boltup.RDA Dimple drilled & slotted items via ebay also were a very competitive priced for brand new, a new set of Intima SR street/circuit rated pads will bite into them.

Cheers, okay got my hands on some RDA 310s now. How much were GTT Calipers from justjap?

I paid $320 inc. freight to adelaide.

Im not sure how many sets they had but otherwise i recall gumtree had a front & rear package advertised.

my painter mate used the good weather oportunity to resray my front bar and cleaned it up. looks much clearner without the scrapes and wear.

IMAG2148_zpsa36b2731.jpg

IMAG2150_zps29b3d780.jpg

also managed to get my tires fitted to the new wheels ready for the "lets make them fit" game.

happy with the amount of stretch

IMAG2143_zpsf19c07a5.jpg

Edited by GH05T

Years ago when I used to come on here, I think I remember people buying the V35 Skyline GT cat-back exhausts as a cheap direct replacement for the NM35s big heavy resonator. Am I remembering correctly? what about the 350z exhaust - that also works but needs a minor mod?

The V35 coupe mid pipe is a direct replacement for the Stagea one...

post-20696-0-57671600-1385546980_thumb.jpg

The 350Z one is basically the same but shorter, efectively by the straight bit fitted to the engine end of the V35 coupe one..

Mine was $120 from Niss4x4, and took about 20 minutes to fit. 2 months later took another 10 minutes to remove the brace thing on the tranmission tunnel, prop shaft catcher thing, as the exhaust was hitting it..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
    • The odometer does go up when driving.  Does this tell it is an issue with the speedometer itself?    Where can I look for replacement cluster? Or speedo? I can likely do the repair.. Will ER34 cluster work on HR34? Or do I need a HR34 20GT S2 specifically lol   
    • Mine's a bit bigger at 70x150mm roughly. The spots are flat, just can feel the edges if I dig my nail into it. I did fix some other other ones by both using my finger to sand that small spot (I'm a bit wary of doing this and creating hot spots and a bigger mess) and I also did sand over it flat and others, but this also worried me a bit because if I create an overall low spot on the panel on paint that is good.  Correct me if I'm wrong but as long as it's flat even if I can feel the edges, I can put filler because it will all be level once I sand it? I can see myself going in a circle after sanding guidecoat with 320 grit if for example the panel is flat with my hand but because I sanded the guidecoat I could have created a low spot again somewhere. Unless where I'm going wrong is what I mentioned previously where I didn't go low enough on the grits. It's 1 step forward and 2 step backwards here haha. I'll probably need to experiment with it more. Last time I go back to bare metal lol.
×
×
  • Create New...