Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Scott,

What would "happen" if I had you to the swapover and install this without a tune? Or is it mandatory that this requires a tune to get it up and running

Nothing would go wrong (the ecu will protect itself), but you wouldn't get the gains obviously, and it would be rather laggy, coming on around 4k revs without a tune.

How long has stao had this out? I just got my billet high flow 2 weeks ago off him but he never mentioned it was new? It looks to be the same unless he's changed something I can't see in the pic....

Just released, not sure but I think yours will be the standard billet highflow, slightly smaller and different profiled rear wheel. Slightly smaller wastegate. Still good for almost 280kw on 98, this one just trades perhaps 200 revs of response for another 30kw or so, but I am only guessing at this point till someone tunes it up and leans on it.

Mine actually left the garage tonight, and it seriously needs a good wash and detail. I'm thinking once it gets a decent layer of polish/wax, it won't look so filthy after the rain as the water should slide right off...

  • Like 1

So just went to pick up a silicone joiner from the shop, who also are certified garret and holset turbo specialist. And queried the guy about hi flowing my stock m35 turbo, he said a stage 2 would cost me 1650 plus gst which is pretty steep, so does anyone in nz know where to get this done at a better price?

Hopefully get the quote back for the shift kit install tomorrow :)

So just went to pick up a silicone joiner from the shop, who also are certified garret and holset turbo specialist. And queried the guy about hi flowing my stock m35 turbo, he said a stage 2 would cost me 1650 plus gst which is pretty steep, so does anyone in nz know where to get this done at a better price?

Hopefully get the quote back for the shift kit install tomorrow :)

Give this guy a call https://www.facebook.com/pages/Steve-Murch-Motor-Sport-Engineering/255636937679?fref=nf been told he knows his stuff

  • Like 1

^^^what he said. Not necessarily the cheapest around but certainly none better.

Then go to Soichi at ST Hitec for an HKS ecu and a tune!

Indeed +1 for Soichi. Did my fcon and tune!

Forgot about him actually, he is dam good at this stuff. So I'll give him a bell, have already spoken to Soichi about tuning which he's happy to do, but still have to complete supporting mods first,

How's your car going Dale? That fcon harness you sold me is dying to go on haha.

Stage 2... Not very descriptive.

Hard to pass on Hypergear's prices, and results. No other turbo re-builder would be modifying your highflow with 38mm wastegate puck to control the boost creep, custom billet wheels etc, and all for $1250...

Stage 2... Not very descriptive.

Hard to pass on Hypergear's prices, and results. No other turbo re-builder would be modifying your highflow with 38mm wastegate puck to control the boost creep, custom billet wheels etc, and all for $1250...

I agree Scott. But do like to support my local if I can. For 1250 Aus plus postage I'm already looking at 1650nz to get one here and have the car off the road for the added shipping time and if I need to use warranty, same process.

I'll talk to the guys again about what exactly goes into a "stage 2"

He also mentioned he had done Vq/vg turbos in the past and wanted me to ask the sau guys if the oil lines have restrictors in them not just in the banjo but actual line and if the line runs through the block or simply bolt to it to pick up the feed.

Anybody sure ?

So he is selling you a product and hasn't even researched, not even a little bit, about it's intended application?

Yes there are 3 restrictors, and the oil pressure is twice what an RB runs. I have no idea what core he is trying to build so I can offer no advice on what needs to be done to increase the oil flow. Too much and the seals will leak, not enough and the bearings won't last long.

Just remember, if it fails there is never a warranty on turbos from my experience.

Lol it was literally quoted on the spot, I would be taking the car down for him to look at next time and give him a proper go at it.

Did anyone know that m24n is just a code for the material garret use.... Learn something new everyday

I hope he runs BB chra's, otherwise the oil flow will be insufficient and it will most certainly ruin any bush core. Been there done that a few times. Learn from my mistakes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...