Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Successfully fitted the Greddy Floating Valve BOV which completely eliminates compressor surge and engine shudder.

Also the ECU no longer hesitates and dumps fuel.

Had a bit of trouble fitting the adapter flange as Nissan put the BOV mount right in the internal corner of the intake and it hits the raised collar where the rubber joiner abuts to.

Both the straight and perpendicular adapters have the same problem so just cut out some to clear it.

Perpendicular adapter will not work with the VQ25DET- puts the vent in wrong position.

Well worth the experiment.

post-25026-0-78434400-1452235973_thumb.jpg

Hmm that one will face the recirc vent at 45 degress up or down off horizontal - not ideal

Also the orifice looks small..

Remember the Greddy FV is a 40mm valve- almost twice the diameter of the Turbosmart Kompact which is 22mm.

So you need an adapter with a 40mm orifice to make the most out of it.

My understanding now for shudder with the VQ25DET is most aftermarket BOVs will not release enough air to deal with the slow closing electronic throttle.

Different story if you have cable..

So a bigger valve orifice and more tunable BOV solves the problem.

Fit Apexi GT reserve tank tonight with mot ul MoCool. just like Greddy radiator breath tank, but Apexi one could store more coolant (could store over 600ml radiator)

post-137368-14525168159674_thumb.jpg

post-137368-14525168397154_thumb.jpg

post-137368-14525168579728_thumb.jpg

post-137368-14525169395032_thumb.jpg

post-137368-14525169578867_thumb.jpg

Edited by YangLIU

It would be ideal if you could bleed coolant up from the rear bleed point into this header tank; then bleeding the system would be essentially automatic.

Even better would be another line leading away from the low point of the tank, to the bottom radiator hose and use it as a fully fledged swirl pot system.

It would be ideal if you could bleed coolant up from the rear bleed point into this header tank; then bleeding the system would be essentially automatic.

Even better would be another line leading away from the low point of the tank, to the bottom radiator hose and use it as a fully fledged swirl pot system.

correct! that's what Greddy radiator breath tank do.

but for mine, the Apexi one, the bottom return line is connecting with heater hose outlet (it should be same as bottom of radiator hose). there is only one line on top which is to stock radiator top with zero pressure radiator cap.

next stage is using T piece replace stock air bleed port on heater hose inlet (i ordered some tools but they are on the way). then make a line from stock air bleed port with radiator top line together. that would make air bleeding be automatic.

post-137368-0-64995400-1452596091_thumb.jpg

Edited by YangLIU

So i finally decided to fit the rear leather seats and tan interior. I found that included in what i bought was a ARX option for rear middle seat seatbelt (photos attached). So after a full day all is finally installed but the passenger side seatbelt that was missing. I will need to keep the dark grey until i source another.

post-77821-14526703331388_thumb.jpg

post-77821-14526703416856_thumb.jpg

post-77821-14526703730443_thumb.jpg

post-77821-14526703851264_thumb.jpg

post-77821-14526703925953_thumb.jpg

post-77821-14526704033896_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Decided to drive to work Monday...

This is how i got home :P

lost hydraulic's in the clutch near work so i wasn't game to try and limp it home. No loss of fluid and the pedal would still return to the normal position... it was just the pressure point that went basically to the floor.

Have since had it checked by my mechanic who couldnt for the life of him replicate the issue. When i drove it the next day it was back to normal... My mechanic still gave everything the once over and adjusted a few things and so far zero issues.

Made me scratch my head tho...

post-104324-0-69127800-1452677180_thumb.jpg

Got a Innovate o2 sensor and looking at installing it onto my M35 and replacing the standard sensor with the simulated narrowband signal.

I've been under the car and the o2 sensor seems to be in an awkward spot. Is there a trick to remove them or do i need to take the dump pipe off

Got a Innovate o2 sensor and looking at installing it onto my M35 and replacing the standard sensor with the simulated narrowband signal.

I've been under the car and the o2 sensor seems to be in an awkward spot. Is there a trick to remove them or do i need to take the dump pipe off

Brick managed to get a socket and extension on his whilst in situ; maybe pick his brains about this.

Got a Innovate o2 sensor and looking at installing it onto my M35 and replacing the standard sensor with the simulated narrowband signal.

I've been under the car and the o2 sensor seems to be in an awkward spot. Is there a trick to remove them or do i need to take the dump pipe off

Here's how I got mine out: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459839-m35-dump-pipe-diy-install/

You can see the bung in the front pipe between the front flange and the flex which I will be using for my Innovate SCG-1.

Blitz front mount in today. Modified the supplied brackets and fitted slimline fan, like for the HDI kit so no cutting up the reo bar.

attachicon.gif2016-01-14 12.39.02.jpgattachicon.gif2016-01-14 12.44.42.jpgattachicon.gif2016-01-14 14.42.05.jpg

attachicon.gif2016-01-14 15.10.03.jpgattachicon.gif2016-01-14 15.09.13.jpg

Bought from JustJAP?

Wont be long until someone comments on the orientation of the tranny cooler.....been there

Yeah, I see you had yours like mine but moved it sideways and into the guard. I thought airflow would be more important. Lots of conflicting views on orientation on the intergoogles. There was plenty of pressure when I last pumped out the old fluid so not too concerned about an airlock. You've got me worried I'm going to blow up my tranny now! :unsure:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...