Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

Ok final tune done after adding Godzilla Motor Sport R35 coil kit new big fuel lines a flex fuel sensor & a Maatouks Racing crank & cam trigger kit.   


98 tune…

123E518F-D527-4D6F-A98F-F8E3C9AF69E1.thumb.jpeg.20bd277714bebe17df55b0cf875e7eb3.jpeg

E85 tune

768D9DD6-1D63-4E94-B5C6-ED288B033431.thumb.jpeg.1f357ad39c6a99a196d2c6ce7b0c65c2.jpeg
thanks to Black Track Performance. 

  • Like 3
  • 1 month later...

Finally got around to modifying the gear selector knob today, lot sleeker looking than the factory lump,and no more worrying about leather deterioration.

Was a bit of faffing around on the lathe back and forth but got there in the end , now that prototype works I can do the next one without machine marks and anodize centre shaft to black as well. Might even get a unicorn logo engraved or lasered in at some point.

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
On 08/01/2022 at 5:15 PM, SLIXK said:

What set up is that looks good

T67 style turbo on a China 🇨🇳 manifold that I got with the car @Garage48 in Hornsby modded it to fit an external gate turbosmart 45 mm (he did a great job highly recommended) he made a complete exhaust from the turbo back 3-1/2 inch with a cat and 2 mufflers. Plazmaman fuel rail intercooler and upper plenum. Bosch 1050cc injectors and a Haltech Elite 2500 it controls the Engine and Transmission it’s auto. That’s about it I think

On 1/9/2022 at 10:01 PM, RBW49N said:

T67 style turbo on a China 🇨🇳 manifold that I got with the car @Garage48 in Hornsby modded it to fit an external gate turbosmart 45 mm (he did a great job highly recommended) he made a complete exhaust from the turbo back 3-1/2 inch with a cat and 2 mufflers. Plazmaman fuel rail intercooler and upper plenum. Bosch 1050cc injectors and a Haltech Elite 2500 it controls the Engine and Transmission it’s auto. That’s about it I think

How much kw did u end up making? How’s the haltech feel with the transmission?

On 10/01/2022 at 1:09 PM, SLIXK said:

How much kw did u end up making? How’s the haltech feel with the transmission?

Not enough needs a bigger turbo and maybe 700cc more as well 260kw at all 4. It feels faster than that so I can only assume it looses a bit through the trans an AWD. The Haltech feels like an ECU. But the transmission is great. Shifts nice and hard. Also has torque reduction on shifts to help preserve the box/flexplate. I am getting a complete MV automatics rebuilt trans and flexplate. 

On 1/10/2022 at 11:38 PM, RBW49N said:

Not enough needs a bigger turbo and maybe 700cc more as well 260kw at all 4. It feels faster than that so I can only assume it looses a bit through the trans an AWD. The Haltech feels like an ECU. But the transmission is great. Shifts nice and hard. Also has torque reduction on shifts to help preserve the box/flexplate. I am getting a complete MV automatics rebuilt trans and flexplate. 

I have just had a built box from MV fitted with a full manual valve body and it is fantastic.

What stage box are you gonna be looking at building with them because my old trans is still sitting there at MV waiting to be shipped back to me and it's already got a stage 2 shift kit, all new solenoid banks that are about 5000 ks old, with a new set of clutches for 1st-2nd gear and bands fitted about 1000klms before being pulled out and swapped for the manualised one I got them to build me, so if you were interested at all I'd be looking to sell it for a lot cheaper than it'd cost to get all that stuff done.

Shoot me a message if interested RBWGN

On 11/01/2022 at 6:14 AM, oxford1327 said:

I have just had a built box from MV fitted with a full manual valve body and it is fantastic.

What stage box are you gonna be looking at building with them because my old trans is still sitting there at MV waiting to be shipped back to me and it's already got a stage 2 shift kit, all new solenoid banks that are about 5000 ks old, with a new set of clutches for 1st-2nd gear and bands fitted about 1000klms before being pulled out and swapped for the manualised one I got them to build me, so if you were interested at all I'd be looking to sell it for a lot cheaper than it'd cost to get all that stuff done.

Shoot me a message if interested RBWGN

Because the ecu controls everything I don’t need the manual valve body. So it will be essentially the same box as yours but with a different valve body to also allow auto shifting and shifting from the steering wheel. 

On 1/11/2022 at 9:01 AM, RBW49N said:

Because the ecu controls everything I don’t need the manual valve body. So it will be essentially the same box as yours but with a different valve body to also allow auto shifting and shifting from the steering wheel. 

Yep so the box that's still at MV is exactly what you have just described ,it has a stage 2 MV automatic shift kit so still works with tiptronic buttons etc and would chirp tyres into 2nd gear 

  • 4 months later...
On 1/9/2022 at 10:01 PM, RBW49N said:

T67 style turbo on a China 🇨🇳 manifold that I got with the car @Garage48 in Hornsby modded it to fit an external gate turbosmart 45 mm (he did a great job highly recommended) he made a complete exhaust from the turbo back 3-1/2 inch with a cat and 2 mufflers. Plazmaman fuel rail intercooler and upper plenum. Bosch 1050cc injectors and a Haltech Elite 2500 it controls the Engine and Transmission it’s auto. That’s about it I 

Edited by SLIXK
On 11/20/2020 at 9:37 AM, TMLP said:

Yeh its a Maatouks Racing built motor running 526hp at the wheels on 98, I was almost ready to get a flex fuel tune & turn it up to about 700 - 800. I think I need to upgrade the box as 3rd gear is the weak link so probably as you mentioned a 1st to 4th helical cut dog box will be needed. It will save down time & money in the long run. It is my daily apart from road bikes & I don't think I could put up with an auto or justify a sequential.$22K

Hey bro what’s your mod list? How much did your engine build cost aswell?

On 20/5/2022 at 8:01 AM, SLIXK said:

Mean bro, imagine how 300 atw would feel 🥶

To go much more I’ll need a different turbo. So the cost increases as I’ll change the exhaust manifold as well and probably go drive by wire but it’s actually plenty to get a not trouble with as with the auto you are always on it so there is no down time between gears

On 5/20/2022 at 10:43 AM, RBW49N said:

To go much more I’ll need a different turbo. So the cost increases as I’ll change the exhaust manifold as well and probably go drive by wire but it’s actually plenty to get a not trouble with as with the auto you are always on it so there is no down time between gears

Fark I get down time in my auto, maybe it needs a service or upgrade lol.. 2nd to 3rd is so shit 

On 20/5/2022 at 6:28 PM, SLIXK said:

Fark I get down time in my auto, maybe it needs a service or upgrade lol.. 2nd to 3rd is so shit 

Yes mine has a shift kit in it. There is not many people that could shift faster with a H pattern gearbox and keep the gearbox from exploding

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...