Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

LOL! Read that completely wrong. I thought you paid $100 for a set of tyres!! I thought "Do you even grip?".

I got a screw in one once, drove on it for a while just tightened it when it was leaking lots lol.

Hahaha yeah i tightened the offending screw when i jacked it up to put some spare 17" i had sitting around (to match rolling radius') but found that my nuts were too big...

So i'm glad i found some cheap 19" tyres a few months ago.

Finally made a steel cargo barrier for the boot in the stagea (instead of the original leather one) as the wife was going for a bit of a drive with lots of stuff in the back.

For anyone who is interested, the top metal rod of the normal one is 13mm - I used a half inch (12.7mm) solid rod which clipped in just fine, with a 20mm by 20mm steel tube for the bottom, and 3.15mm thick 50mm by 50mm mesh welded between the two for the middle.. :-)

Ian

Well finally had a bit of shed time! Fitted up rs4s rear cradle and 2way lsd, and whiteline rear sway bar , adjustable camber arms front and rear, hicas lock bar , r33 rear brakes and t3 rotors to match front , greddy rear strut brace. Wired in full race ets pro altessa controler as a stand alone unit, got the recaros in and bolted up, slid some nice new wheels under with some substantial 265 rubber on the back , connected and mounted my innovate motorsports lambda meter and put in some jtc n1 coil overs, and put on carbon ganador mirrors

Now just a wheel align and all good , when we get a bit of cool weather ill go and do some more tunning and turn boost up and water/meth injectionpost-76904-0-45997100-1390659802_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Well finally had a bit of shed time! Fitted up rs4s rear cradle and 2way lsd, and whiteline rear sway bar , adjustable camber arms front and rear, hicas lock bar , r33 rear brakes and t3 rotors to match front , greddy rear strut brace. Wired in full race ets pro altessa controler as a stand alone unit, got the recaros in and bolted up, slid some nice new wheels under with some substantial 265 rubber on the back , connected and mounted my innovate motorsports lambda meter and put in some jtc n1 coil overs, and put on carbon ganador mirrors

Now just a wheel align and all good , when we get a bit of cool weather ill go and do some more tunning and turn boost up and water/meth injectionattachicon.gifimage.jpg

Such a shame you didn't get much done... :whistling:

Sounds like it'll be almost a different car! It's looking damn good too.

Well finally had a bit of shed time! Fitted up rs4s rear cradle and 2way lsd, and whiteline rear sway bar , adjustable camber arms front and rear, hicas lock bar , r33 rear brakes and t3 rotors to match front , greddy rear strut brace. Wired in full race ets pro altessa controler as a stand alone unit, got the recaros in and bolted up, slid some nice new wheels under with some substantial 265 rubber on the back , connected and mounted my innovate motorsports lambda meter and put in some jtc n1 coil overs, and put on carbon ganador mirrors

Now just a wheel align and all good , when we get a bit of cool weather ill go and do some more tunning and turn boost up and water/meth injectionattachicon.gifimage.jpg

Nice! Did you find a lock bar that bolted straight up or did you have to do a cut and shut job on one to fit?

post-76904-0-04771500-1390740681_thumb.jpg

Fitment stance style with grip :) 18x10 +10 with a 265 on it very little stretch only -1.5 deg of camber , nice big contact area for grip, only rolled gaurds no pumping or manipulating ! A very happy boy

  • Like 1

My wagon is back in the shop as of this morning to sort out the exhaust (it's almost head-ache inducingly loud), some light-throttle tuning and a few small niggles here and there. Something was causing some restriction somewhere, so hopefully the exhaust sorts it out while still reducing volume. They're sourcing a new muffler from SMB, and apparently an SMB muffler has been used on a 500kW R33 that's still pretty quiet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...