Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 122
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Do an Uncle John and order 10! Thats sure to get an order filled!

lol and the lambo still had fogging issues.

I'll grab a screen too. I'll email you when i've put the deposit in.

I'm not surprised given the 1st screen I got was one from John that he had left over from the old R34 days. We couldn't get that to work at all.

But does anyone have any details on who the V8 Supercar mob are?

I go through enough windscreens to know that although a great price, these are too dear for me.

12V hair dryer will sort my screen out :)

I'm with you on that one too Marlin!

I have a smallesh 12v hair dryer under the dash, been looking for a better one for some time now.

Have you come across any good ones?

No mate, I'm yet to actually remove my stock system and replace it with a dryer.

Beer Baron would be the go-to man for all things hair salon I reckon....... or wait, doesn't someone amongst us drive an MX5?

No mate, I'm yet to actually remove my stock system and replace it with a dryer.

Beer Baron would be the go-to man for all things hair salon I reckon....... or wait, doesn't someone amongst us drive an MX5?

I'll have to get his opinion.... :P

No mate, I'm yet to actually remove my stock system and replace it with a dryer.

Beer Baron would be the go-to man for all things hair salon I reckon....... or wait, doesn't someone amongst us drive an MX5?

well I did work in a hair salon as a teenager to make some cash. i give wicked head......massages and yes the owner did drive a celica (convertible too if I remember rightly). apart from that I dunno, I did bone a chick working there though and that was nice but a bit off topic. I also remember some kind of hair straightener that was in such high demand recently people were doing ram raids for them. perhaps if you had a couple of them and stuck them to the screen it would work, or if not at least you and your co-driver would have nice straight hair...

Hi Guy's

I;m trying to post and getting above the post ready to go in pink " You are not allowed to use that image extension on this board."

The only images ready to go are a few basic Emoticons ??

Any help appreciated

CheeRS .... Del

Hey ....

Hi Guy's

I'm trying to post and getting above the post ready to go in pink " You are not allowed to use that image extension on this board."

The only images ready to go are a few basic Emoticons ??

Any help appreciated

CheeRS .... Del

Anyone ??

CheeRS .... Del

I have seen a proper fan unit for demisting, i will track it down/get a price.. yada yada

are you thinking of the ones that mark and jase have fitted. dont get one of jase he'll rip ya. haha.

they are a small 12v heater element (eliminates heater core) and they have a 12v computer fan. the box they come in is rubbish and every one we have fitted to race cars (would be a dozen or so) have had a custom box made for better air distribution. more fans could be added for better air flow.

they do however have there limitations. one race car we fitted one to ran at last years bathurst 12 hr in the suport calses and aparently it was spastic weather. anyway it wasnt enough to defog the window with everything working against it.

these are the best 12v heater and fan that i have come across and sell for around $200 but i would have to check. im thinking its under $200.

another option that can be used was somthing spotted on an old rally car at the alpine rally 2 years ago. the owners of this car had made a plate to sit a few mm off the top of the gearbox tunnel. this then had a computer fan on it and some ducting upto the windscreen. so they were sucking the hot air off the top of the tunnel. race cars are always hot in that area so its just a way of recycling the heat.

anyway way off topic and i agree these windows are cheap

Hi Guy's

I;m trying to post and getting above the post ready to go in pink " You are not allowed to use that image extension on this board."

The only images ready to go are a few basic Emoticons ??

Any help appreciated

CheeRS .... Del

Don't look at me Del,,,you and I have the same basic puter skills,,,maybe don't include the "neil's a great guy emoticon". :action-smiley-069::action-smiley-069::action-smiley-069:

Cheers

Neil

If you want a good electric fan demister, and you're good at tinkering, I'd by two cheap hair driers, and pull them apart so they no longer have the handles etc, and create a special mount/way to force the air in (And not let it escape unless it is going past the window)

But for less weight, heated window = Win.

heated windscreen for less than a single race tyre. or about 1/20th targa entry fee.

sounds like an excellent investment to me.

I change at least 3 to 4 windscreens a year though.......

Regardless, as I said, excellent value for what appears a great product!

I change at least 3 to 4 windscreens a year though.......

Regardless, as I said, excellent value for what appears a great product!

Too fast over Arrowsmith will do that.. spastic number of cars caught and passed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...