Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oooOOOoooooooh

Good.

Yes there is a lot of win in that car. Can you help me pump up my guards and repaint it toffy?

please dont get the same size/ offset all around. Gts skylines look a million times better with more dish in the rear and a more agressive stance at the rear. if you look throught the r33 pics thread i think you will find that trend working wonders.

the silver r33 looks balls in my opinion. the front rims look bigger at the front and look to stick out of the guards makeing the reas look undersize.

but it is your car do as you please.

i got my seccond pair through boost. grate blokes to deal with.

d1r's are sexy

i want the 18x9 +15's all round on the stagea (think 10's will be too ambitious and tyres too exxy)

let us know if anywhere does you a good deal on a combo

there is a bloke in the build section that has got some tuff rims fitting a stag. i think 10s will look good. or atleast the dish will. your welcome to try mine on for sizing. they are 18x10 +22 also a 235 18 doesnt look to bad on 10s. we run them on about 3 different cars so im kind of used to the look.

good tyres like fedderal can be had for a very resonable price if you ask the right questions

please dont get the same size/ offset all around. Gts skylines look a million times better with more dish in the rear and a more agressive stance at the rear. if you look throught the r33 pics thread i think you will find that trend working wonders.

I kind of wanted the same all round so I could have a spare and run 285s front and back.

I'm starting to think my original plan is the best strat. 18x10 +22 on the Rear and 18x9 +15 for the front.

I've spoken with rusty and he said his fronts rub at full lock so with my lock mods it'll definitely rub! But I prolly won't use that lock with the 18s on because I'll only drift with my 17s.

SIGH!

Haha, nah mate I was actually hinting at the complete opposite, sorry if you got the wrong idea. I was commenting on your ability to do basically anything to do with cars that is brought up in these forums, and from what I hear do it bloody well. From now on you should have your blushing face on, 'cause I was honestly very impressed :)

I'm the sort of person who will call bullshit if I think it's bullshit, but I won't generally go into depth about ducks, origami and stromboli when I'm doing it :P

Jay

On the serious.

Your index finger, it's mine.

please dont get the same size/ offset all around. Gts skylines look a million times better with more dish in the rear and a more agressive stance at the rear. if you look throught the r33 pics thread i think you will find that trend working wonders.

the silver r33 looks balls in my opinion. the front rims look bigger at the front and look to stick out of the guards makeing the reas look undersize.

but it is your car do as you please.

i got my seccond pair through boost. grate blokes to deal with.

there is a bloke in the build section that has got some tuff rims fitting a stag. i think 10s will look good. or atleast the dish will. your welcome to try mine on for sizing. they are 18x10 +22 also a 235 18 doesnt look to bad on 10s. we run them on about 3 different cars so im kind of used to the look.

good tyres like fedderal can be had for a very resonable price if you ask the right questions

i was thinking about the 10's but i think the offset is a bit low and i might have clearance issues, i'd love to try them on tho if you have time sometime

basically anything that fits a gtr will fit the stagea

I kind of wanted the same all round so I could have a spare and run 285s front and back.

I'm starting to think my original plan is the best strat. 18x10 +22 on the Rear and 18x9 +15 for the front.

I've spoken with rusty and he said his fronts rub at full lock so with my lock mods it'll definitely rub! But I prolly won't use that lock with the 18s on because I'll only drift with my 17s.

SIGH!

yes running the same size front and back is handy for track use so you can rotate tyres ect throught out the day but its actually all about looking cool. haha.

i doubt you will get 285s on the front with stock guards regardless. is there a reason you want 285s? most people look for a common size used by other forms of motorsport so second hand track tyres can easily be brought.

i was thinking about the 10's but i think the offset is a bit low and i might have clearance issues, i'd love to try them on tho if you have time sometime

basically anything that fits a gtr will fit the stagea

I have 18x 9.5 GTC's on my S2 stag. They're a bit of a squeeze on the ass end with 255 tyres- there's heeeeaps of room in the front guards though. My stag is auto so it's a wider track at the rear than an origional manual. It's also a fair bit lower than standard too :-)

post-22624-0-07681000-1307790718_thumb.jpg

285's are going to be waaaay expensive and imposible to fitt up front zoid. 265's are more common.

Cheers

Justin

Edited by XRATED

I have 18x 9.5 GTC's on my S2 stag. They're a bit of a squeeze on the ass end with 255 tyres- there's heeeeaps of room in the front guards though. My stag is auto so it's a wider track at the rear than an origional manual. It's also a fair bit lower than standard too :-)

post-22624-0-07681000-1307790718_thumb.jpg

285's are going to be waaaay expensive and imposible to fitt up front zoid. 265's are more common.

Cheers

Justin

thats a nice looking stagea! maybe i can fit more in the rear guards because i've got a manual cradle? what offset are you running?

+1 for using a common tyre size, for my 31 the proper tyre size is 235/40r17 but because anything with optioned 17" alloys comes with 235/45/r17 they are waaaaaaay cheaper that the 40 profile tires

also, for drifting your going to want the wheel with the least inertia so they pick up speed easier, there are 2 ways to decrease inertia, lighter material in the wheels - expensive or smaller diameter - cheaper for everything

235/45/r17's can be had really cheap because they are fitted to heaps of cars

just food for thought

thats a nice looking stagea! maybe i can fit more in the rear guards because i've got a manual cradle? what offset are you running?

+1 for using a common tyre size, for my 31 the proper tyre size is 235/40r17 but because anything with optioned 17" alloys comes with 235/45/r17 they are waaaaaaay cheaper that the 40 profile tires

also, for drifting your going to want the wheel with the least inertia so they pick up speed easier, there are 2 ways to decrease inertia, lighter material in the wheels - expensive or smaller diameter - cheaper for everything

235/45/r17's can be had really cheap because they are fitted to heaps of cars

just food for thought

Cheers... I love it too (luckily so dose the woman) They're 9.5's +22 with 255 tyres.

You will have 30 or 40mm narrower track in the ass end if your stag is a factory manual. You'll fit a 10" wheel under there with rolled lips and correct offset. Honestly you'll be pushing some serious hp to need more than a 245/255 35 under the ass end with awd.

Cheers

Justin

Edited by XRATED

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...