Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Mate needs to ship his W8 Passat from Sydney to Melbourne now that it has stopped leaking everywhere...

Any recomendations/approx pricing from city to city trucking?

Many thanks.

Nick

If its running, try FINEMORES. They truck Fords north from Melbourne and a few trucks come back empty.

If its not running be prepared to have your ass reamed. Cost me $750 from Dubbo to Melbourne.

honestly???? from my PERSONAL experience???

if it's running, DRIVE it back.

if it's NOT running however...

...get in touch with a fair weather friend with a car trailer. borrow / rent it... buy him whatever he wants. after all - he's a fair weather friend. show him what REAL mates rates are. buy him a carton or three of his favourite imported beer...

clean his gutters out...

see if he'll lend you his ute to tow it too... if not - rent one from bunnings.

get the trailer and the ute - and connect the two.

drive up to sydney - pick up the car. and tow it back your god damn selves. do it over the course of a weekend.

you'll save HUNDREDS of dollars. and get the car in exactly the way you had it before.

i transported two cars. one had a few scrapes on the bumper, small scratch on the bootlid no big deal...

the other car, flat battery... battery had been arced and fried. blow two major fuses @ $40 and a $1000 price for EACH car.

i live in WA. i didn't have a choice. you do have a choice.. grab your mate. and handle your biz.

  • 4 months later...

autotrans

Toll

theres a mob from QLD I think called scotts transport or something similar that I've used before.

just good car carriers or car transport etc.

EPS, im pretty sure if you do the sums, it wouldnt end up any cheaper, by the time you pay $150 to hire a trailer, $150 for the ute+25c km($500), 2000km of fuel(about $400) and about 30 hours of boring driving, its really not cheaper at all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...