Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got a permacool oil filter relocater kit with an oil cooler in line with it. anyway the lines, filter and fittings all get quite hot.. and you can feel the pressure going thro the lines no worries. esp the ones too and from the oil cooler. However the oil cooler itself is stone cold to touch. even after a few hard laps at the track when oil temps go to 110 degrees its still cold. yet i have oil going too and from it.

wtf?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353887-oil-cooler-question-its-cold/
Share on other sites

If the oil cooler is damaged why would it make a difference which side of the filter its on ?

I'd have thought filter first because if you lose an engine the shrapnel shouldn't get past the filter and get caught in the cooler core , one less thing to replace with the rebuild .

A .

Is there a thermostat in there somewhere? If not it shouldn't matter which way it's hooked up, it'll still flow in the configuration you have.

The horror stories are from ones with the 2in-2out style oil filter relocator/thermostat in one types (hks/trust).

Anyway, you've said the lines and fittings up to the core are hot and you can feel the pressure in there so there must be some flow through the thing, or your engine would already be dead from lack of oil.

You don't have an inline thermostat hidden in the guard somewhere that you have forgotten about do you?

Can you feel a difference in the lines going into the cooler and coming out? If the line coming out is cooler then the radiator is doing its job. According to Earls you should filter the oil before it goes through the cooler. Will try to upload diagram.

post-49463-0-05098100-1297734985_thumb.jpg

If the oil cooler is damaged why would it make a difference which side of the filter its on ?

I'd have thought filter first because if you lose an engine the shrapnel shouldn't get past the filter and get caught in the cooler core , one less thing to replace with the rebuild .

A .

exactly it makes no difference. and you should always send the oil through the filter first, then the core, then back to the engine. set-ups with the thermostat built into the filter head do exactly that. when cold oil travels from engine, to filter and back to engine, when hot it goes engine to filter to cooler then back to engine.

as it turns out i mistakingly hooked up the outlet on the block sandwish plate on the centre of the oil filter... and from there it was looped thro the oil cooler.

swapped these two lines around on the oil filter attachment and then ran it and within a few mins the oil cooler had warmed right up... so now its flowing as it should.

hope no damage has been done :( :S

as it turns out i mistakingly hooked up the outlet on the block sandwish plate on the centre of the oil filter... and from there it was looped thro the oil cooler.

swapped these two lines around on the oil filter attachment and then ran it and within a few mins the oil cooler had warmed right up... so now its flowing as it should.

hope no damage has been done :( :S

That sounds like what was done to mine. After a few power runs at 8000+rpm and 475rwkw we checked to see how hot the cooler was.... It was cold. :O

We drained some oil out and it was full of metal.

Towed car away, had engine pulled out, found the bent crank. Now just waiting to get it rebuild again.

If only I had my tuner fit the engine instead of another local so called "mechanic"

yeah I can't imagine your engine will be alive. if the cooler was plumbed up so nothing was flowing through it (i'm not sure how btw?) then that means oil was coming out of the filter head area and then going no-where. but if you just have one 'out' hose and one 'in' coming off the engine filter head adapter then it shouldn't matter which way you connect them to the cooler.

oh wait, i see. you hooked the engine 'output' line to the remote filter 'output' instead of the filter 'input'. you could be in trouble, might get away with it. but if the engine is still running then that's a pretty fair sign it will be ok.

Would most likely have popped through the oil filters drain back valve too as if oil was being fed through the filter the wrong way the rubber flap that stops oil draining out would been stopping flow but I guess eventually it just would have forced it's way through.

oil analysis, its like $50 and mainlube.com.au do them, highly recommended, will tell you if you have shagged the bearings or anything.

this is something you want to find out now before catastrophic failure, it could be fine though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...