Jump to content
SAU Community

Running E85 On My Car Is It Worth It

adam Foster

By adam Foster,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

adam Foster Mentor

adam Foster

Posted
Posted

i have an rb26 with 555 injectors garrett -5 turbos, autronic computer and aurtronic cdi 15psi.

will i get any gain on e85 or is it not worth it.

dont have time to get the tune changed.

Shazza24 Proficient

Shazza24

Posted
Posted

i have an rb26 with 555 injectors garrett -5 turbos, autronic computer and aurtronic cdi 15psi.

will i get any gain on e85 or is it not worth it.

dont have time to get the tune changed.

Needs to be tuned and likely bigger injectors, as a short answer. It will also require a couple of new fuel filters replaced periodically as the crap is cleaned out of the tank + fuel lines.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Injectors are far too small for -5s on PULP as it is...

On E85 - forget it, not a hope in hell you'll get enough out of them.

Also 1bar on -5s is kinda pointless. You need 20-24psi to really get things into the happy zone.

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

No way in hell man. U are expecting e85 to run on the same tune as 98.

E85 requires atleast 30% more fuel injected into the engine than 98 so putting it in without tuning will lean ur motor out and more than likely blow in up

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

Well I'm making 402 rwkw using ID 2000's ( which are actually 2250cc) at 52% duty cycle. Calculate that back it's roughly 1170cc I'm using.... Soooo not very much if that's anything to go by

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

so how would sard 1000s go on e85 with twin bosch 044s surge tank and another 044 in tank on a built 26?

currently 427kw @ all 4 with a t88 on 98pulp

N1GTR maxed his 1000's at 403kws on E85 but thats on a 3L, you might be able to maintain the current level of power on a 2.6L but would be the very limit...you would get no gains and 30% more fuel usage

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

so how would sard 1000s go on e85 with twin bosch 044s surge tank and another 044 in tank on a built 26?

currently 427kw @ all 4 with a t88 on 98pulp

I dont think you would make your current power. A set of ID 1600's would be spot on.

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

It will also require a couple of new fuel filters replaced periodically as the crap is cleaned out of the tank + fuel lines.

bit of a myth IMO - my fuel filters were fine, replaced twice during the approx 18months i was on E85, even cut one open to have a look - that's 100% E85 as well, no map changes back to 98 here and there

Brezza Proficient

Brezza

Posted
Posted

N1GTR maxed his 1000's at 403kws on E85 but thats on a 3L, you might be able to maintain the current level of power on a 2.6L but would be the very limit...you would get no gains and 30% more fuel usage

I've spoken to a few people with 3L RB's and they've had much bigger gains on E85 due to the higher compression of the 3L. One bloke was telling me how the 26 doesnt have as high compression as the SR's or the RB30. so therefore the 26 can't take as much advantage of the knock resistance of the fuel.

I've had minimal top end gains in my GTR going to E85, only really made gains in the midrange. but i did get it tuned on a hot day and it still made good power. the STD intercooler is probably holding me back.

Am getting it tuned this Thursday, hopefully it will be a little cooler and get some better figures. the tuner tuned it on the richer side just in case it leaned out too much in colder weather.

So hopefully with a cooler day and leaner AFR's i can get a little more out of the car?

bit of a myth IMO - my fuel filters were fine, replaced twice during the approx 18months i was on E85, even cut one open to have a look - that's 100% E85 as well, no map changes back to 98 here and there

Have been running E85 for just under a month and going back to get the fuel filter changed. the mechanic said that my tank looked to be pretty clean when installing the twin pumps intank. so i dont think that the fuel filter would be too dirty. i might just change the fuel filter this time and if its still pretty clean i will just do it after another 6 months or so.

I've noticed that on E85 my oil has been looking much cleaner?

has anyone else experienced this?

on PULP the oil used to start to look darker, but on E85 is still looks fairly fresh.

Shazza24 Proficient

Shazza24

Posted
Posted

bit of a myth IMO - my fuel filters were fine, replaced twice during the approx 18months i was on E85, even cut one open to have a look - that's 100% E85 as well, no map changes back to 98 here and there

I suppose you could be right and upon thinking about it maybe even the initial change of the fuel filter when first going to E85 might not be needed. Ethanol as we know is a solvent and could breakdown stuff already trapped in the fuel filter but even then if it is getting past the fuel filter why worry as it must be alright to go through the injectors, etc.

In theory anyway.

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

i'd almost be resigned to put that one into the 'corrodes fuel lines' bin...

maybe it's just completely dependent on the car? my GTT NEVER gave me any engine issues other than the normal coilpack issue, so maybe if you just have a healthy engine that's seen good oil, fuel and regular maintenance, it's not an issue.

i know i'm not the only one to not have had issues with fuel filters.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...