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Hey all.

Just wondering,

Which would perform better?.. ?

Buying an R32 Gtr and I would just like to know what I'm dealing with..

This is for a daily driver with some balls when I tell the ECU to have some, but also be nice on fuel with decent response,

And.. a casual track(drift mainly) car (when I make it to the track).

I'm not really interested in drag racing.

I'm considering twin GT2860s in replacement of the stock ceramics which as far as I know are GT25s?..

Any advice would be great.

Thanks.

Also, it seems I posted this in "for sale".. My bad. sorry.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356011-rb3026head-or-a-rb28-stroker/
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I should have pasted the Nismoid quote in the other thread....

You gotta search bro! At the top of this section you'll find dyno result threads, there's one for RB26 results which should have some RB28's in there, and there's also an RB30 hybrid thread. READ THEM AND SEE WHAT PEOPLE HAVE.

That being said, RB30.

Save your money and buy an R32 GTST and RB25 or 30DET that .

If you can live with a four banger buy a Silvia .

No offense but a GTR is a poor choice for a drifter and far cheaper cars would do the job a lot better IMO .

GTRS are heavy cars and throwing more money/cubes/power at them doesn't fix this .

A .

argh, just deleted my post.

Once you factor in the extras for the rb30 conversion (adapter plates, oil pickups, exhaust fabrication, modding alloy sump to bellhousing, etc etc) the cost of the 3.0 vs the 2.8 is line ball. No practical difference.

The 3.0 is a major head-fsk to get it all in cleanly and neatly and working. Unless you really like DIY welding/grinding etc, consider giving it a miss. In hindsight I would do the 2.8 (even though the 3.0 build yeilded a pretty good result).

Engine characteristics - the 3.0 gives you 2000cc extra but unless you get a different crank, limits your rpm. You will have to adjust driving style (eg grabbing 3rd before 100kph).

The 2.8 stroker kits can come with billet crank or full counterweight or both and often rated to higher rpm operation than the 2.6.

There's a lot of unexpected hassle with the 3.0 build that you can avoid with the 2.8.

argh, just deleted my post.

Once you factor in the extras for the rb30 conversion (adapter plates, oil pickups, exhaust fabrication, modding alloy sump to bellhousing, etc etc) the cost of the 3.0 vs the 2.8 is line ball. No practical difference.

The 3.0 is a major head-fsk to get it all in cleanly and neatly and working. Unless you really like DIY welding/grinding etc, consider giving it a miss. In hindsight I would do the 2.8 (even though the 3.0 build yeilded a pretty good result).

Engine characteristics - the 3.0 gives you 200cc extra but unless you get a different crank, limits your rpm. You will have to adjust driving style (eg grabbing 3rd before 100kph).

The 2.8 stroker kits can come with billet crank or full counterweight or both and often rated to higher rpm operation than the 2.6.

There's a lot of unexpected hassle with the 3.0 build that you can avoid with the 2.8.

balance the 30 crank and put a decent balancer on it and lots of people spin them to 9000. its a myth that when built they cant rev.

argh, just deleted my post.

Once you factor in the extras for the rb30 conversion (adapter plates, oil pickups, exhaust fabrication, modding alloy sump to bellhousing, etc etc) the cost of the 3.0 vs the 2.8 is line ball. No practical difference.

The 3.0 is a major head-fsk to get it all in cleanly and neatly and working. Unless you really like DIY welding/grinding etc, consider giving it a miss. In hindsight I would do the 2.8 (even though the 3.0 build yeilded a pretty good result).

Engine characteristics - the 3.0 gives you 2000cc extra but unless you get a different crank, limits your rpm. You will have to adjust driving style (eg grabbing 3rd before 100kph).

The 2.8 stroker kits can come with billet crank or full counterweight or both and often rated to higher rpm operation than the 2.6.

There's a lot of unexpected hassle with the 3.0 build that you can avoid with the 2.8.

Ok so what rpm in your opinion is ok for them?

There's a lot of unexpected hassle with the 3.0 build that you can avoid with the 2.8.

Like having too much low down grunt you have to be a little more careful with the throttle?

I think im in a decent position to comment on this topic. 2.8 stroker, GT block, GT RS's, E85. To sum it up I want to put my mega dollar engine in the trash after driving N1GTR and MarkoR1's car. Sorry , but the 2.8's just do not compare.

balance the 30 crank and put a decent balancer on it and lots of people spin them to 9000. its a myth that when built they cant rev.

^^ This

Like having too much low down grunt you have to be a little more careful with the throttle?

I think im in a decent position to comment on this topic. 2.8 stroker, GT block, GT RS's, E85. To sum it up I want to put my mega dollar engine in the trash after driving N1GTR and MarkoR1's car. Sorry , but the 2.8's just do not compare.

^^ and this.

/thread

Oh, the other reason I want the gtr is because the car I'm driving now, spins too easily in the wet, it'd be nice to set the torque to the front n rear once it rains..

I've heard from many people that the rb30/26s are awesome..

So the rb30s have a wider powerband?

thats all to do with you right foot though... im sure a fully built gtr would spin the wheels in the wet if given the chance. if you want to drift it an r32 gtst would be your best bet for a skyline in my opinion, once again what is your power goal you dont need 400rwkw to drift, although it would make it more fun rolleyes.gif

Oh, the other reason I want the gtr is because the car I'm driving now, spins too easily in the wet, it'd be nice to set the torque to the front n rear once it rains..

I've heard from many people that the rb30/26s are awesome..

So the rb30s have a wider powerband?

Budget?

Oh, the other reason I want the gtr is because the car I'm driving now, spins too easily in the wet, it'd be nice to set the torque to the front n rear once it rains..

I've heard from many people that the rb30/26s are awesome..

So the rb30s have a wider powerband?

You'd need a torque split controller to do that and to be honest, your right foot is much better tool when it comes to throttle control than anything else.

Why not have a dedicated drifter, and a GTR daily? that way you get the best of both worlds rather than a hugely compromised GTR that you have to sod around with to try and drift.

thats all to do with you right foot though... im sure a fully built gtr would spin the wheels in the wet if given the chance. if you want to drift it an r32 gtst would be your best bet for a skyline in my opinion, once again what is your power goal you dont need 400rwkw to drift, although it would make it more fun rolleyes.gif

+1

I'd much rather build a mild GTST to drift in than a GTR. save you a few hundred kg's and stuffing around with the drivetrain too much.

Most of the difference will be in the ability behind the wheel

Oh, the other reason I want the gtr is because the car I'm driving now, spins too easily in the wet, it'd be nice to set the torque to the front n rear once it rains..

I've heard from many people that the rb30/26s are awesome..

So the rb30s have a wider powerband?

You can't "set" GTR's to a set % front and rear. They are not like evo's or a wrx.

You can't "set" GTR's to a set % front and rear. They are not like evo's or a wrx.

Yep, but with a little mucking about either with a Torque Split controller or mucking around with the accellerometers or whatever they are (the lat and long ones) you can have a bit more of a play.

You'd need a torque split controller to do that and to be honest, your right foot is much better tool when it comes to throttle control than anything else.

Why not have a dedicated drifter, and a GTR daily? that way you get the best of both worlds rather than a hugely compromised GTR that you have to sod around with to try and drift.

I can't have 3 cars parked out the front of my house, and ...I dont have that much money...

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