Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

$60 for the whole kit including Ballast's? or just the uni globes?

I've noticed though, anything really above 6500k your Visuality just goes downhill, especially in rain.

I'm sticking with the factory 4300ks...I had 6000k aftermarket ones in my mazda 3 and it sucked ass in the rain/mist/fog...

took like 10mins to change the parkers didnt even have to take the wheels off........... looks SO much better now :D

Wish I had your small ass hands....

Mine are now LED- hope I never have to change them again.

Wish I had your small ass hands....

Mine are now LED- hope I never have to change them again.

i still jacked the car up just so the wheel was slightly off the ground HAHA

pretty sure my disc's need a good machining they dont feel the best under heavy braking or highway driving

whats the stock brake thickness so i can see if its just worth sourcing some vented disc's.............

Maybe I missed you stating so in the past (or just forgot), but I just noticed the Nismo rear wing on your car!

Subtle, but adds just enough :)

so its a nismo wing :) i love the wing looks weird without it imo

The stock disks are 22mm new, 20mm minimum if I remember right.

32 gtr disks are 32mm new, 30mm minimum, well worth the upgrade.

just measured my disc's there 296mm X 24mm.......... minimal wear on them, doesnt look warped but the surface from outter to inner is a bit wobbly

whats the best value upgrade...................???

** just found this:

Stock- 296 x 24mm fronts

R32 GTR non vspec - 296x32

R33 GTR - 324mmx30mm

350Z Brembo pack - 324mmx30mm

Edited by WAGON_BOY

just measured my disc's there 296mm X 24mm.......... minimal wear on them, doesnt look warped but the surface from outter to inner is a bit wobbly

whats the best value upgrade...................???

** just found this:

Stock- 296 x 24mm fronts

R32 GTR non vspec - 296x32

R33 GTR - 324mmx30mm

350Z Brembo pack - 324mmx30mm

R32 GTR non vspec - 296x32 will be the cheapest, anthing with "Brembo" written on it for a Skyline seems to demand telephone number pricetags; even if they've been thrashed to death.

Another option you have is R32 GTST calipers,324x30mm 350Z brembo discs and an offset bracket from conceptz perfomance or Ebay.

The advantage with the three you've quoted is the bolt on nature of them; only some simple bushes for R32 non- Brembo.

sweet ill check out concept z perfomance :D

Try this.:thumbsup: Quoted me roughly $150 to ship to my address.

http://www.conceptzp...158.165.206.187

Edited by Daleo
  • 5 weeks later...

thinking about doing a dump pipe back exhaust soon....... basically i want to do it right the first time, whats required to be able to flow enough for 300kw@w ???

got one of Scotty's dumps already.....

striaght throught 3" system or a 3.5"???

with a 4" rear muffler or whats the go???

cheers :)

Any of the big name Jap exhaust will do the job.

Fujitsubo Legalis R

Kakimoto

Blitz Nur spec

Nismo

HKS Demodo

plus probably a few others...I think all of the above are 3" systems...not 100% sure

Edited by ironpaw

kakimoto is 80mm 3.25"

i got it. its the best ive seen to be honest(may be biased as this is what i have) and its not too loud at all.

mines flowing so much its causing the turbo to creep with my highflow.. so if you highflow it. please make sure you get a new wastegate flap and widen the wastegate hole to suit.

im talking from experience.

lol

Any of the big name Jap exhaust will do the job.

Fujitsubo Legalis R

Kakimoto

Blitz Nur spec

Nismo

HKS Demodo

plus probably a few others...I think all of the above are 3" systems...not 100% sure

Nup, the new Nismo is not 3"... nor is the Demoda for that matter.

Both 2.5" if memory serves me correctly.

Fuji Legalis and the Original M35 Nismo are 76mm and have basically the same design (very different muffler though)

Kakimoto (R or N1) and Blitz are 80mm

Demoda is rubbish for performance.

Charlestone exhaust....keeping it Local....I have had no probs with Hp development!!!

Unless if cause you want to flip your car to show shiny shot off!

Edited by Jetwreck

gonna get it made locally probly will a 100 cell cat, hotdog and resonater and muffler.

probly go with a magnaflow system............. other options are lukey and xforce

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...