Jump to content
SAU Community

Lambchop With A Renault Axis Here...


WAGON_BOY
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 3 months later...

Haven't updated for a while not that I've really done much to it lately but did take it out to SMSP South Circuit again and managed to knock off another second off my lap time with a 1:08.26.

post-83704-0-47917800-1398571877_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-29891900-1398571943_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-15143800-1398571963_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A couple of my mates were down at SMSP and messaged me when they saw your stag out on the track. Looks good man, congrats on the PB. The words, poise and regal, spring to mind!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

cheers guys on the kind words :)

turbo and injectors and retune etc will be on the cars but it still seems to be going strong so not going to worry atm, busy on my RX808 wagon trying to get that finished :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

The cars been playing up since last Sunday, its like it wants randomly stall when cruising so what I'm thinking is maybe airflow meter or fuel filter, its due for its 105,000Km service so I think I'll give it the works and see how it goes after that.

But to make matters worse on Saturday a woman decided to side swipe my rear bar luckily no damage to the rear quarter, just another thing to piss me off!!! :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the airflow meter goes whilst driving it normally just goes straight into limp mode, but doesn't stall. That was my experience anyway.

Maybe a dodgy cam sensor? Or fuel pump? Would be easy to check if you can get a gauge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

swapped the airflow meter with a spare Dale had bought from Scotty but the cars still running like crap and now the AFR's are way to lean.

cruising now sits at 12 rather than 14
and when I hit boost even light throttle 5PSI I'm probably going under 10. (usually max throttle I'll hit the low 10's)

so 1) is the airflow meter the same do is the voltage different ?
or 2) do I need to do a ECU reset and relearn ?

otherwise I'm going to put my old one back in and try and find the problem why the car's wanting to stall mid driving/cruising.

tomorrow I might see if I can get the data off my tablet from the last few drives I've done to find the error.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 is richer than 14.

That is, 14 parts air, 1 part fuel.

So it's not in danger. However it does point to a potential issue. That is, intake or vacuum pipe/seal leak. So, it might want to stall from unmetered air on cruise, but leak air out under boost to make for a richer mixture as the afm is metering up stream.

Have a look at all pipes for disconnected hoses, or splits.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought the airflow meter was the problem cos the voltages were spiking so I replaced it but it didn't fix anything so yeah I guess there could be a Intermittent leak somewhere.

but all my vacuum lines are new so I'm thinking it might be a solenoid or something to do with the fuel line valves.......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can you pressure test the intake to see if there are any leaks?

If there is no other reason for the change in AFR's I can send you another AFM to try... Unless someone up there can lend you one for a drive? Perhaps the Chinese one is slightly out? I would have thought it would be fine on cruise though...

Have you checked the O2 sensor is oscillating?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well I finished wiring the fuel pump and replaced the fuel filter.
replaced the oil and put back in my original airflow meter.
put a fresh tank of Shell Optimax in as well.

took the car for about a 45min drive and everything seems to be ok.

didn't find an air leak although its still quite possible I'll see how it drives over the next week or so.......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the offer Russell but I'll see how it goes for now haven't had any drama's yet and I've put my old afm back in.

the problem with Scotty's afm is I'll need to get a retune anyways :( or put a resistor on it to get the correct values like the stock one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have your numbers back to front. 350mm from wheel centre to guard lip would be scrapinly low and the suspension arms would be at spastic angles and it would have the road manners of a meth affected giraffe. You can down to ~450mm (from larger stock starting values about 50ish mm higher than that) before you start to create to many problems.
    • I think last I checked it was 35cm from fender to wheel center. I heard u can go up to 45-48cm before handling his impacted. But I need to check again. I know I was about 1.2 cm off being close to max recommended. 
    • You'd need to weld on an external gate to achieve that number though. I can't remember seeing anyone make 500hp at the wheels with the stock manifold / internally gated turbo.
    • Suspension Component Question Looking for some feedback based on people's experiences! I know this has been loosely covered in other threads but I can't find any direct answers/experience. I'm up for some bush/rod replacements and was interested in a hybrid approach between hardened rubber and pillowball kit. Why not choose one or the other? Well, this is for my daily driver, which I track once or twice a year. I like a stiff car and a sporty feel but I don't want to compromise the chassis too much with 100% pillowball gadgetry.  I know from experience and a tonne of reading that not all components affect ride quality in the same way - eg. in my case, coilover top mounts should be hardened rubber as pillowball transfers way too many undesirable qualities and doesn't have much more upside than a good hardened rubber. But, pillowball tension rods translate to much better turn-in/steering response and make the car significantly sharper, without negatively impacting ride quality in a significant way.  I'm not TOO bothered by NVH (to a degree). So, with context out of the way, does anyone have any experience with a hybrid approach as mentioned above? I'm going to replace all components over time so am seeking guidance on: - front tension rods - upper camber arms - rear lower control arm - rear traction rod - rear upper camber arm - rear toe adjuster rod  Secondly, is there any reason why this is a bad idea? Or any other info/wisdom that I might not be considering. Cheers 🫶
    • That's good to hear I'll stick with the stock I hear they are good for 500hp and I'm only shooting for 350-400 once I can get this thing sorted and get to actually building it. 
×
×
  • Create New...