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I want to spray my cooler black to make it less visible. I am someone who hates shiny. But I think doing so will not be too good. My theory is that black absorbs sun. More than often I am driving in the sun. Wouldn't the lower part of the cooler and piping be affected by this heat?

I know aluminium does corrode but there are paints out there designed for aluminium and protecting it. I know a guy who builds aluminium gates, he will probably powder coat it free. I'm just worried about clogging up fins..

Edited by SargeRX8

Your bonnet will protect it from the sun. What GTRPowa said before is right, the colour affects radiative heat dissipation, the effects of which are minimal compared to the effects of convection heat loss. Even at a low speed like 40km/h the intercooler is losing a lot of heat, and it goes up exponentially with speed.

  • 3 years later...

Did any notice an increase in turbo spool noise after installing an fmic. I have a quite exhaust and a stock airbox and i can definitely hear the turbo spool much louder now. Is it the larger piping and core or should i be checking for boost leaks. I have the blitz turnflow in an R34GTT.

I bought a plenum,piping and intercooler ,intake for my xr6turbo. Process west kit. It decreased lag, picked up 200rwkw with a tune ,exhaust and fuel system over the factory power. You will run cooler on boost, flow more and depending on the quality u shouldn't have noticeable lag.

Basically it allows you to run much higher boost and more timing advance (good for response)

Do it! But don't be cheap

I fitted a pretty big 600x400x80mm bar and plate cooler to my s1 Stagea, custom no cut pipe work.

I didn't really notice any difference in lag, boost threshold or power. Very slight (better) increase in economy,

Power Seems to stay crisper on hot days.

But overall not a huge difference, still sounds the same too. All at stock boost and tune.

  • 1 year later...

I'm gonna dig this one up again guys.

Interesting af thread, read this for a solid hour or so.

Reason is, I'm still making all my stage 1 mods with a turboback system next in-line, having done my intake with a Apexi PI & CAI/Box and upgraded my coils with Splitfires.

I picked up an intercooler from a guy in Geelong and was deadset on installing it this weekend but after a bit of a read it sounds like it may not be the best idea right now?

Running stock boost, haven't had it tuned since I became owner (and to be honest, don't know where to have that done where I live)

To be fair, the stock side mount is probably good enough until the turbo itself is actually changed. Same with the exhaust really. All of those mods only really needed to support what happens with a larger turbo.

Please don't talk about stage 1 mods - you mean cosmetic changes that don't make your car go faster. If you have a quality fmic and you can install it yourself go ahead - it won't make your car go faster but it will come in good stead when you get a bigger turbo - which will really make your car go faster if done properly.

Don't worry about getting a tune - if you have a stock ecu its not tunable and all they can do is check the timing and if you buy or borrow a timing light you can do that yourself. The most cost effective way to make your car tunable is with a Nistune chip so do some research on aftermarket ECUs : Nistune chip, PFC, Adaptronic, Link etc.

I'm gonna dig this one up again guys.

Interesting af thread, read this for a solid hour or so.

Reason is, I'm still making all my stage 1 mods with a turboback system next in-line, having done my intake with a Apexi PI & CAI/Box and upgraded my coils with Splitfires.

I picked up an intercooler from a guy in Geelong and was deadset on installing it this weekend but after a bit of a read it sounds like it may not be the best idea right now?

Running stock boost, haven't had it tuned since I became owner (and to be honest, don't know where to have that done where I live)

You sound like you're in a similar position to me with where your car is at, although I'm still learning much of this as I go.

I've got a 34GTT also that came straight from Japan with a HKS Hi Power exhaust (fairly certain it's turbo back), ARC cold air induction box, HKS EBC (running stock boost) and some BC coilovers. Basically "stage 1", although I do have a Nistune chip that also came in the cars ECU.

I bought a return flow blitz cooler and chucked it on with the car as listed above. Yet to have it tuned (am debating other mods, will do soon) but the car runs fine, noticed no negative results. Stock boost is slightly higher due to the increased air flow but nothing to worry about, although I did notice it.

Where do you live? Guys here might be able to suggest some tuning places.

I'm aiming for a moderate amount of power, 250kw or so. Will upgrade the turbo to a Hypergear turbo in the future, but nothing extreme for me. As far as I'm aware, Injectors, turbo, AFM, fuel pump and a tune for me should do this.

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The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? 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