Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

they are shit. get a proper aftermarket one and you'll be astounded at how fast and by how much pressure changes with RPM. the stock gauges are purposely dampened in their response as nissan (and other companies) thought wildly moving gauges would alarm the general car driving public and people would think there was something seriously wrong with their oil pressure. so what you get is a very slow moving gauge that is no where close to being accurate at any given moment.

I'm in the market for a aftermarket oil pressure gauge, should i look for one with a mechanical sender or a electric sender? and is there any cheap gauges that will do the job (and not be flashy expensive like Defi)

electric sender for sure. mechanical is no good, that means having fluid in the cabin and if a line or coupling splits or the gauge fails you'll get a nice spray of 110degree oil in the cabin!

i have to be honest I run defi's in 2 of my cars now and whilst they are expensive I reckon they're worth every penny. but for cheaper options you can probably pick up a used trust guage. they don't require a main controller (each gauge has it's own) and they have peak hold and warning function which is important for a oil pres guage, you want one that tells you when pressure drops low. probably looking at under $150 for something decent. also defi now make gauges that don't need controllers, sort of a budget entry level defi gauge, I'm sure they are quite good too.

My R32 GTR pressure gauge doesn't seem to work at all, along with the front wheel torque thing, I am assuming just because of age however something else might be broken.

What is the best way to proceed with getting it diagnosed, then finding a replacement etc? I don't really care about having a bunch of clusters, so just something in the stock position would be fine.

Anyone know where I could find a 3 Guage Holder to replace the stock one in a BNR32?

As everyone is saying in this thread it seems the factory ones are definately unreliable and to get aftermarket for more accurate reading's.

My R32 GTR pressure gauge doesn't seem to work at all, along with the front wheel torque thing, I am assuming just because of age however something else might be broken.

What is the best way to proceed with getting it diagnosed, then finding a replacement etc? I don't really care about having a bunch of clusters, so just something in the stock position would be fine.

just follow the wires up from the sender and check the connections :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How dare you sell your unreliable Skyline and buy a reliable, Toyota/Yamaha car with a strong gearbox, torsen LSD and Toyota reliability. At least you won't need to worry about oil pumps, big catch can, oil restrictors, blowing off power steering belts, sheering off 3rd gear, failing ABS relays/pumps, etc.
    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
×
×
  • Create New...