Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

There was a full NM35 Axis fibreglass kit on Yahoo, dunno if it is still there.

It included the front bar, grill, flares and rear bar.

Decent price and the fit looked damn good (had it unpainted on an RS/RX in one of the pics).

Would probably be the easiest way of doing it if you can find the auction.

I'm pretty sure you'll find that they're both an ABS type plastic, one is textured grey (ARX) and the other is smooth, to take paint (AXIS).

its probably the same part, you can paint over the textured section and the paint will smooth it out. someone should FAST it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I strongly recommend anyone playing with cars chasing anything electric, get a basic understanding of using a DMM, and about 12V DC systems. They're REALLY easy, you only need to know V=IR and how to apply it, and you can work out what your readings should be doing. For a simple check on a light bulb, you're looking for 12V at the positive to the light, a near zero resistance to ground, and then for a small resistance across the globe when unplugged. If one of those values isn't right, you won't get what you need. Now if they're all okay,and you then plug the light in, and it still won't work, you now do a voltage check across the globe positive to negative. It should effectively read full battery voltage. If it's not, especially if it's quite low, the age old V=IR starts to be able to be thought about, you now know though, for the current flowing, there isn't much voltage for the given resistance, but the rest of that V has to be dropping somewhere else. So now do a voltage check from ground of globe, to ground of car, then do voltage check from positive of battery, to positive of the light connector. Things like a high resistance in a wire/join will start to "steal" voltage on you. So now step back through which ever wire, until you find the voltage drop is non existent, you're now before what ever is steal your voltage for example.   There's plenty of YouTube videos, but really worth understanding some V=IR, and doing some even theoretical numbers to start to understand it. Then you'll know what the DMM is telling you.
    • Is Jackie home by Friday?
    • Item 10: Tech Edge wideband sensor interface and display. You’ll need to buy a new sensor. $150. Item 11: part of a Willians 5 point harness. $40 Item 12: OS88 gear display. No need for it now, my PPG sequential came with one. $30
    • I took it out, even though I knew I probably don't know what I'm doing other than looking for power signal lol. Lesson learned here I guess, even if it looks normal, worth checking as it only takes a few seconds anyhow. And maybe disconnect the battery, even though really shouldn't have to.
×
×
  • Create New...