Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 743
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Dashboard out and ready to send to Carbon fabricators for the race dash.

some people have expressed interest in all the OEM pieces being fabricated in carbon in a true OEM style. let me know if interested in either an OEM dash or race dash.

gallery_56949_4256_253185.jpg

gallery_56949_4256_849334.jpg

gallery_56949_4256_547205.jpg

gallery_56949_4256_2876.jpg

Dashboard out and ready to send to Carbon fabricators for the race dash.

some people have expressed interest in all the OEM pieces being fabricated in carbon in a true OEM style. let me know if interested in either an OEM dash or race dash.

Picked up my car yesterday from Trent and I saw your beast sitting there half naked :D

My friends were there with me and they just stared at the car and couldn't find word to express their feelings...

Can't wait to see those in carbon :D

This will be well beyond insane considering what the AMS GTR does with the the Alpha 10 kit and your going so much more.

AMS GTR 9 Second pass

Granted their GTR is in a completely different field of racing but it just shows the power of the sucker.

This will be well beyond insane considering what the AMS GTR does with the the Alpha 10 kit and your going so much more.

AMS GTR 9 Second pass

Granted their GTR is in a completely different field of racing but it just shows the power of the sucker.

World Time Attack is the focus for the build at the moment, however I am sure we will get a chance to run it at the drag strip after that. With the weight reduction and expected power, it will be well into the 9's.

will be fun to go to the drags, we might have to look at the aero though if we want to get serious about it.

we have some custom aero pieces planned to improve downforce which although helpful on the track may hurt us on the drag strip!

this should also shut up those interweb dweebs who were commenting on your feature page your mod list is nothing major LOL

granted when you grow up being able to stage 3 tune your ps3 supra, yes handbrake version 1 may seem tame in comparison

btw any noticeable wear on the oem tranny/subframe mounts after all those track events?

Edited by domino_z

are you referring to speedhunters?

if so, yes there are a lot of experts out there on the www. who pass judgment with only 10% of the facts and 0% idea

haven't looked closely at the mounts. that tranny has only done 4,000km

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...