Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 months later...

Long time without driving...

Only real event for the last part of 2012 was SAU nationals. Was a great track and it was a great event with lots of good SAU people!

Got some in-car but haven't had time to edit the footage. Managed to get down to a 1:03.88 which is very respectable for first time there. That made me 6th outright, fastest skyline and 2nd owner/driver. Lots of hired/pro drivers in other cars.

Pffft 1:03s respectable.... It's legendary!!!

Quickest skyline I know of on semi's :P

Really? That's even better then! Just need to beat those pesky silvias ey Boxhead haha.

Have you had yours on the track since SAU nats Steve?

Very nice. What's on the cards for 2013?

Not much unfortunately. Renovating my house and subdividing my block will be a focus for the next couple of months. Gunna do more water skiing and 4x4'ing as its more social and I can involve my girlfriend a lot more. Our drift Sil80 will be ready for march Deca and that should satisfy my racing urges for a bit.

Sadly the racing will have to slow down because over the last 4 years of doing WTAC and similar it's taken me months to recover financially after each event and it's not really sustainable. Having said that I'll still be doing maybe a PIARC day, SAU round(s) and SAU nationals if they're on. WTAC is still a maybe but won't be as full on as the last 2 years if I do make it at all.

As above.

Given that the car and driver combo is a proven performer, I'd be inclined to paint it one colour and try for some sponsorship, could ease the financial burden a bit.

I fully understand the social aspect though, that's often been something I've thought about too. What other hobby could I have that I can do more regularly and involves more people.

Well lets hope you're able to get some support and make wtac again this year - it's great to see a car built on a 'reasonable' budget running so quickly.

Thanks mate.

As above.

Given that the car and driver combo is a proven performer, I'd be inclined to paint it one colour and try for some sponsorship, could ease the financial burden a bit.

I fully understand the social aspect though, that's often been something I've thought about too. What other hobby could I have that I can do more regularly and involves more people.

Paint is on the cards.. Well it has been for 2 years lol.

Boats are cool! V8, friends, good weather! Plus you're close to the Murray.

  • 1 month later...

Just read the whole thread Russman! Good work :thumbsup:

I'm running one of the Racepace radiators now and the temps are perfect.... Interested to know your thoughts on the 1.06 TS rear housing and also your gate problem too? :)

Just read the whole thread Russman! Good work :thumbsup:

I'm running one of the Racepace radiators now and the temps are perfect.... Interested to know your thoughts on the 1.06 TS rear housing and also your gate problem too? :)

Yeah RP Radiator is awesome. I've been recommending them since, lots of happy customers. Very cost effective too.

The 1.06 is fantastic. Haven't seen anyone else with the setup yet. Not laggy on the track and pulls hard to redline. Gate problem was actually mostly attributed to manifold. Once we enlarged the gate pipe on the manifold + 50mm gate the problem was fixed.

Was good to meet you guys at Nats last year.

Yeah it was good to meet you breifly too! Got to check out the car in person though, looks so tough on track!

I've been pretty happy with the radiator, they look identical to the ASI cheapies BUT as soon as i fit mine i noticed all the temps dropped which was good!

There isnt many TS setups to compare, Owenliberts 34 was super impressive with the response from the 0.82 housing but the power was held back possibly by the rear housing? When are you hitting full boost (Or when were you at the 350kw)?

Good to know the gate problem was nothing major.... Is yours 2 pipes merging into one of each side of the collector?

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...