Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah well I'm after a bit of everything. If I valued economy above all else I'd lift my foot ;)

As for the speed cut, I guess it doesn't matter, I just object to having a limit. I'm weird like that.

Too bloody right!

Nobody's telling me what I can't not do... not?:nyaanyaa:

I don't NEED to go more than 171km/h, but I'd be nice to know I CAN; if I want to.

And everyone does ONE top speed run; right?:ph34r:

Don't think I'm going to beat my last TS anyway...

So how much throttle do you want on launch?

On a stall launch I get 35% throttle opening that see's 2600 rpm straight away and hold it for a couple of seconds and I get to 3000rpm and rear wheel spin. And release the throttle and off she goes.

Cheers

Andy

I know what you mean Andy, but you can't always dial it up at will, to dispose of pesky Commo's.:domokun:

I'd like minimal delay, so you can punch away from a standing start, no stall up.

You need to get the highflow and I think the ProfecB boost controller has helped with my launch.

So how much throttle do you want on launch?

On a stall launch I get 35% throttle opening that see's 2600 rpm straight away and hold it for a couple of seconds and I get to 3000rpm and rear wheel spin. And release the throttle and off she goes.

Cheers

Andy

Can't stall when cruising at 100kph and 1900rpm

You need to get the highflow and I think the ProfecB boost controller has helped with my launch.

Yes, it's on my extremely long list of thing to do...

Re; boost control. Is that because you can build full boost lower in the rev range?

So am I completely wasting my time looking at the G-Zone remap, and should just look at Emanage?

Well, I won't say its a waste of time. But to make the best use of the remap I'd think you really need a tune as well.

Putting in the ECU isn't going to give you an extra 50awkw...I don't think :blush:

I think Andy has an Impul ECU with pretty much all the mods done but its at around 180awkw (correct me if I'm wrong Andy). If its all tuned then you'd get a much higher figure...

Edited by ironpaw

To me a remap is never going to be the perfect solution. It's more for standard (or standard-ish) cars, and will usually give you more power for the same or less fuel. Except in this case where it gives you some freedoms.

Then a standalone (or in our case, everything is a piggyback) will provide the tuning necessary for your mods, depending on your level of modification.

The only reason for getting a G-Zone, by the sounds of it, is to get rid of the speed cut and throttle restriction.

So am I completely wasting my time looking at the G-Zone remap, and should just look at Emanage?

No. Certainly won't be a waste of time IMO

Well, I won't say its a waste of time. But to make the best use of the remap I'd think you really need a tune as well.

Putting in the ECU isn't going to give you an extra 50awkw...I don't think :blush:

I think Andy has an Impul ECU with pretty much all the mods done but its at around 180awkw (correct me if I'm wrong Andy). If its all tuned then you'd get a much higher figure...

The Impul was either a) a generic Impul map (most likely) or b) tuned for the previous owner.

It was never remapped for the mods that Andy has done.

It is possible to see a significant performance increase from a remapped ECU as long as those that remap it are aware of your mods, have a heap of experience with the model of car and, finally, are damn good at what they do.

It will never be as accurate as an in-car tune, but going from 140awkw to 190awkw on a remap with isupporting mods done would not be out of the realms of possibility.

To me a remap is never going to be the perfect solution. It's more for standard (or standard-ish) cars, and will usually give you more power for the same or less fuel. Except in this case where it gives you some freedoms.

Then a standalone (or in our case, everything is a piggyback) will provide the tuning necessary for your mods, depending on your level of modification.

The only reason for getting a G-Zone, by the sounds of it, is to get rid of the speed cut and throttle restriction.

Spot on

It would certainly be a good "First Step" though, and then E-Manage down the track if that's not enough.

For some, it might be the "little extra" they're after.

Edited by Daleo

I got mine from Ebay BNIB for $500 shipped + harness for $100. I could be out by $50 but it wasn't that much more.

Well Richxz made it sound like he values economy above all else. Getting rid of the throttle restriction isn't going to help that...

And speed cut....well unless you're tracking/dragging the car, are you really going to use that? :whistling:

It's not that I value economy above all else but I do want it better because I'm paying $1.50+ for 92 ron down here! If I'm driving it hard then the economy is what it is but if I'm not then I'd like it better than what it is for such a modern engine.

E Manage works out pretty expensive for me as the car and I have to go on the boat from here to Cihan and back so it makes the G Zone more economical for me. I just hope they can give us what we want in a re-map.

It will never be as accurate as an in-car tune, but going from 140awkw to 190awkw on a remap with isupporting mods done would not be out of the realms of possibility.

Considering I went from 125awkw to 175awkw with only a high flowed turbo and an impul ecu; thats definitely not out of the realms of possibility

Considering I went from 125awkw to 175awkw with only a high flowed turbo and an impul ecu; thats definitely not out of the realms of possibility

I think its more than possible.... mine is sitting at 215KW with sierra stage 1 highflow, exhaust and intercooler... standard ecu. Will be interesting to see what I will get with the e manage installed.

This, I like!

How much clearance around the new turbo? At least v-bands make mounting a little easier.

Your welding has really come along mate; kudos.:thumbsup:

Edited by Daleo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...