Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wake1header.jpg

[Amended on 26-09-2011]

[updates reflect changes due to Renew Withdrawl]

Hey all,

Wakefield Park doesnt need much of an introduction to most of you, to anyone thats never heard of Wakefield Park this is a very safe track about 2 hours from Sydney where you can drive your pride and joy as fast as you like with safe run off areas and no speed cameras to worry about!

If you've never driven on a track before and want someone experienced to give you instruction and help with how to drive better, faster or safer, or even if you've done a couple of trackdays and just want to ask some questions (no matter how silly they may seem) we have this at no extra charge available throughout the day.

For the trackday format is currently under discussion with our committee. Be sure that we will get back to you with firm details as soon as we can. There are some exciting options being looked at, so watch this space for more updates in the coming weeks.

Rest assured that there will be plenty of opportunity to run your car through its paces or come out for a first time and learn how to track your car.

Ok so here's the details;

Date: 17th December 2011

Where: Wakefield Park (www.wakefieldpark.com.au for directions)

Who: Anyone with any car (doesnt have to be a Skyline)

What: Trackday, suits total beginner to advanced

What time should I get there: 8am at Scruitineering for experienced, 730am for beginners (Scruit finishes at 840am sharp, if you're late you need to wait until the day has started so the rest of the group isnt held up)

How much(Revised): SAUNSW members $190 per driver, non members price $220 per driver

Passengers: Allowed on passenger sessions, must wear helmet and same clothing as drivers aswel as sign an indemnity form and pay a small fee

Licence needed: CAMS L2S or AASA club licence ($50 for 12 months, yes you can arrange this on the day no worries)

How the day runs;

Firstly, when you arrive at the track, find a place to park and empty all loose objects out of the car. Ensure there's nothing loose in the engine bay and no leaks (More info on scruitineering will be posted up at a later time). Then drive your car to the scruitineering shed (its marked, but if you dont know where it is, follow where everyone else goes or just ask someone, its very easy to find, directly on the left as you enter from the highway). Your car will be checked to make sure its safe to go on the track and it will then be assigned a number which is your number for the day. You then park the car back in your original spot and go to the office to sign on. Take your licence with you or if you dont have one, this is where you can get one. Once you've signed on its now time to wait for the drivers brief to begin (which will be announced on the loud speakers throughout the pits and starts at 845am sharp). Once the drivers brief is over, all the drivers are split into groups based on experience so that everyone is comfortable in their group. One group is then allowed on the track at one time for evenly timed sessions, once one group comes off, another goes on, this repeats until the end of the day with a short break around lunch so officials and helpers can get some food and drinks.

Thats basically it! The only way to secure a spot is through sending in an entry form and payment to the SAUNSW account. The very basic entry form is attached to this post and the bank details are below;

SAUNSW bank details:

Bank - NAB

Branch - Marrickville

Account name - Skylines Australia NSW

BSB - 082 356

Account number - 546 393 766

Please put your FULL NAME in the description, eg "JOE SMITH"

WAKEFIELD 17 DECEMBER 2011Entry Form.pdf

  • Replies 264
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Entries

1. Andrew- Tats

2. Ben - BenM

3. Mark - Staz88

4. Adam - Mr stabby

5. Drew - Lanky71

6. Jeremy Koch - Frozenwaffles

7. Martin - M.J.H Wakie

8. Charles - Victory

9. Clinton - Victory

10. James - SirLordVanVader ahhh whatever

11. Scott -BunsenBurna

12. Christopher - yeedonga

13. Gary - Jasper63

14. Scott Haley - RENEW

15. Timothy Southerm - RENEW

16. Peter - Fatz

17. Chris - Easto

18. Benjamin M (unknown SAU name)

19. Tim - Mainyard

20. John - a20089

21. Chris - Cejay

22. Jarrad - Ruxis

23. Phillip M - RENEW member 123

24. Nicholas - angryoven

25. Canada Rob - RGB

26. Neil - Neil

27. Duncan - Duncan

28. Dale - PSI Parts

29. Daniel Hobeiche

30. George Khouzame

31. Owen - Owens

32. Andrew - Bored33

33. Mark - MLR

Reserves

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

keen as...but the december heat freaks me out in principle. and 6+months to wait?! crikey!

Bookings at Wakefield are hard to get, that booking was made last year - since Oran Park closed down Wakefield have been booked out for more than a year in advance

Also, its open now for those enthusiastic people who cant wait to sign up from the last one - haha Mark (above) is the perfect example

i too will be in for this one.

hopefully with my over boost/miss/whatever the fcuk it is will be completely sorted... hmm maybe 1.08 will be doable :)

We have decided to open entries for members only initially.

If you know of a non-member who wants to enter....point them towards the membership form ;)http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/365434-s-a-u-n-s-w-club-membership-faq/

Entries will be opened to non members if there are place still available shortly before the event.

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Paid this arvo, just emailed form then

Aiming for under 1:20 between changes of underwear

surely your car can put a 1:20 to shame, mine did a 1:13 with a waste-gate that wouldn't open because the lines melted and split (still managed to send boost off the end of the boost gauge :pirate:)

id like to be in for this. see how i go (few things to blow $$ on before it hits the track again)

http://www.skylinesa...ser/95-andymac/ (guy was at the last day and is the previous owner of my car would likely be surprised that the exterior hasn't changed apart from a different front bar)

if duncan is going to be there get him to go around with you/take your car for a few laps so you can see what lines you should be talking and where to brake etc. having an experienced person there for your first few outings is a must have.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...