Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I havent read the whole thread but send it to Unigroup Engineering in Girraween. Yavuz tuned our link G4 and was very impresed with it. Add to that the fact he really knows his shit :D I have been ising them for years and woldnt take my car to anyone else. And i use to work for another big name GTR workshop in Sydney

I am actually going to speak to him about using this Ethanol sensor in our car this weekend as Sydney only has a handfull iof servos with E anything and to do away with the laptop on the back seat would be awesome :D

Did you end up speaking to Yavuz about doing it?

We are setting up my car in the next few weeks using this sensor and a G4.

Just wait for a Eflex car to get written off then find it in the local scrap yard then harvest the sensor.

very limited flex fuel cars here in Oz though, U.S. has heaps of GM flex models

that's the cheap option as i have mentioned previously, you can get them for around $50 from the wreckers in the states (and given there's a lot of flex-fuel GM cars, you'll find one pretty easily) but i wasn't going to risk it - $250-$300 for piece of mind is pretty cheap really.

You'd be an idiot to buy something as vital as that second hand. Well maybe if it was a stock engine and it didnt matter but to do it with a built engine is lunacy.

I'd still like to see what Link have to say about which sensor

It either works or it doesn't. Most the sensors are going to have some sort of offset error so you'd need to calibrate it each time anyway.

Regardless if you do the tune from scratch surely it it won't matter, I can't see it giving different values for the same ethanol content, might vary between sensors but as long as you don't tune with one and then change it shouldn't be an issue.

Did you end up speaking to Yavuz about doing it?

We are setting up my car in the next few weeks using this sensor and a G4.

Havent bothered as he said he was already doing one and i have other more inportant things to put my cash into at the moment. We have just bought land so the car wont have anything done to it for some time now :D

  • 6 months later...

98 was 356, E70 (but it might have been mid 60's) was 385, E85 was 400

so at a guess, E40 ~375

Filled up a couple times with United now, and the sensor was flicking between E84 and E85 (it was reading E83 before fill up and was very low) - would be nice if they stay consistent on E85 like Caltex stays consistent on E70 - otherwise i'll have to go back for a tune if it goes into the 90's

I thought with your setup you could anything and it would adjust or does it only map up to 85 percent ethanol?

i can.... up until E85 :D - the E85 tune was done on drum E85 so i knew it was spot on (which it was) and there was only Eflex available at the time, so if i wanted to do a true E85 tune i had to buy a drum. With hindsight though, i should have bought/ordered a drum of E100 and done it that way... i wasn't thinking about United or Fueltown coming back on line, which i should have.

We'll see how it goes, but United in Vic at least seems steady and Caltex has been been rock steady on E70 - i'll probably do an E100 one day just to cover all possibilities :D

Both United and Caltex vary an unacceptable amount. After seeing it with the display it is a little concerning.

Its not as bad you think tuner said b/w 70 and 85 worse case the af mixtures leaned out half a point and if the tunes safe with a few degrees timing left out of max power itll be fine.

Its not as bad you think tuner said b/w 70 and 85 worse case the af mixtures leaned out half a point and if the tunes safe with a few degrees timing left out of max power itll be fine.

I don't really care as that's the sensors problem :D. Either way in United's case, if you're going to sell 'E85' then make sure it's that. Not whatever some drongo thinks is 'sweet' on the day.

My last lot was E77. Another member tested a United elsewhere in Sydney and it was E93 from memory.

  • 7 months later...

Ive been testing United E85 every day or two for the last 2 months and its been spot on, very consistent. United E85 is every bit as good as Drum.

in tank nismo has got me there, and no fueling issues (using too much fuel! hahaha)

but the new 400 Walbro's seem to be the way to go now for big power E85 setups

I don't really care as that's the sensors problem biggrin.gif. Either way in United's case, if you're going to sell 'E85' then make sure it's that. Not whatever some drongo thinks is 'sweet' on the day.

My last lot was E77. Another member tested a United elsewhere in Sydney and it was E93 from memory.

as long as its over 70 its gonna make sweet fk all difference, your tuner would tune it to be safe on both as its only minimal fueling adjustment and should not need a ignition adjustment on a street car for only a 10% ethanol change.
Ive been testing United E85 every day or two for the last 2 months and its been spot on, very consistent. United E85 is every bit as good as Drum.

Awesome news...

Is link g4 still the best bet if going for eflex?

United has been very consistent the whole time i've been using... i guess almost a year now. Never seen it below 82 or above 85 - that is absolutely no issue what-so-ever for the tune

quite a few ecu's are capable to be flex-fuel (to be pedantic 'eflex' is Caltex's high ethanol % fuel, not the ability to run any mixture) - with a 5v signal maybe even a pfc could? who knows...

but the G4 is still a proven piece of kit regardless if you have it set for flex-fuel or not, it's still a great ECU. It's a good choice, but not your only choice if you want to go flex-fuel (which of course you want to! :D) Trent's your man too, easily has the most experience with E85 in Melbourne (poss in the country) and was the first flex-fuel (my car) and done quite a few since. Also very familiar with GTR's as well... obviously :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...