Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm thinking about turning my R32 into a drift car instead of trying to sell it.. I have the following shopping cart planned but my friend said I needed a few extra things.

My currently planned list:

  • Coilover Suspension
  • Suede deep-dish steering wheel w/ boss kit
  • sparco seat
  • fmic
  • LSD

However he's informed me that once I upgrade from wet roads to dry roads, I could risk twisting my chassis unless I install something like that brace that runs through the center of the car.

So that said, what else am I going to need for getting into dry road drifting (obv. I'm talking track)

Edited by SKITTLES
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367017-whats-needed-for-basic-drift-setup/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Lets see... what did I do to my car to make it driftable... I think I took it to Oran Park... pic related

n639839121_1630968_4930.jpg

On a more serious note, swaybars will make your slides easier to catch. Other than that you really don't need much, especially if you are just starting

basics

-locked diff. sure you can get a 1.5 or 2 way LSD but they are expensive and not required. Lockers aren't perfect but it's a drift car, not a time attack race car.

-a working clutch

-skid rims and tyres.

-remove HICAS

-alignment.

extras

-coilovers

-swaybars

Power isn't needed. You want the car to handle well and be predictable. Save funds for repairs, servicing and tyres.

Car damage is apart of drifting.

Edited by Peter89

So much torque, the chassis twisted coming off the line

win-one-internet.jpg

if it's a r32, an rb25 will be a good place to start, lol

*waits for all the RB20 fanbois to get sand in their vaginas

The original plan was to put an RB25 into it, seeing as the engine has 227,000KM on the clock. But the existing RB20DET is going stronger than my RB25DE with 165000km...

basics

-locked diff. sure you can get a 1.5 or 2 way LSD but they are expensive and not required. Lockers aren't perfect but it's a drift car, not a time attack race car.

-a working clutch

-skid rims and tyres.

-remove HICAS

-alignment.

extras

-coilovers

-swaybars

Power isn't needed. You want the car to handle well and be predictable. Save funds for repairs, servicing and tyres.

Car damage is apart of drifting.

12293_380244637013_520517013_3901770_4183248_n.jpg

This is pretty much my favorite pic atm.

Thanks for the tips though, I think I'll get a locker and use that for a bit before getting a 2 way lsd.

I don't know if it's got hicas, but i'll check it out tonight.

who teh fark said the chassis will twist and that you should out one of those pointless floor bar things in the car?

Well actually, the chassis will twist/flex a bit as soon as you sit in the car.

You callin' me fat? :P

So the floor bar thingo is pointless?

locked diff, no need to spend $1000+ on a LSD when a shimmed diff will do the same thing

a good seat, Velo seats are great and can get them pretty cheap

make sure the handbrake works to:P

thats all you need to start, anything else is pretty much extra

steering rack spacers are win and cost next to nothing

there are some basic engine mods that will help a lot (fmic, exhaust and more boost)

go watch some in car drifting videos, helps a lot at least knowing what you need to do

I was thinking of getting a $400 pair of seats hahaha just el cheapos... wonder if they're any good >.>

Yeah, gotta change the brake pads. I'll have to do the rear brakes, they don't seem to be grabbing the wheels too hard.

newbie question here,

Do you need any surge tanks or to change to a different sump, just wondering when your flying sideways wether theres still enough oil and fuel going in??

as long as you don't run low on fuel it shouldn't be a issue, stock sumps are fine to

Seriously, just drift it as it is. If you don't like an aspect of your car you will either quickly find out and change it or learn to just deal with it. Standard cars aren't undriftable, it's just harder :thumbsup:

Though... just to contradict myself, it is handy to have something to hold you in place. In my experience a harness with a factory seat works much better than an aftermarket seat with a factory seat belt. Grabs less attention from the police too ;)

Seriously, just drift it as it is. If you don't like an aspect of your car you will either quickly find out and change it or learn to just deal with it. Standard cars aren't undriftable, it's just harder :thumbsup:

Though... just to contradict myself, it is handy to have something to hold you in place. In my experience a harness with a factory seat works much better than an aftermarket seat with a factory seat belt. Grabs less attention from the police too ;)

Interesting thought about the harness....

As for leaving stock; the R32 has a lot of body roll and whilst it's still very driftable (not that I'd know >.>) it's a little unpredictable. Easier to stiffen the suspension and put some sway bars in before I head out.

Due to money, I can't get out on the track fo ra while, so might as well save up in the meantime for the gear.

newbie question here,

Do you need any surge tanks or to change to a different sump, just wondering when your flying sideways wether theres still enough oil and fuel going in??

For future reference; I've never had an oil problem with the car sideways, but I've only done it a couple times and was too busy watching other things.

I DO know, however, that when I was testing the brakes in it, I smashed them to the floor and the oil pressure (or whatever it is) guage suddenly dropped and the car almost stalled.

oil level might have been low.

for all RB's it pays to overfill the sump by half a liter.. cant go wrong with that. same with fuel in the tank. make sure its over half and there wont be any issues.

as for whats needed.. just an LSD that works.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...