Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI all I have recently got a non-turbo R33 as a temporary car...and i was just wondering...what cars u can actually beat in it? I mean i was given a good run by a Celica the other day...and i was a bit disappointed.....I mean surely i cant expect to beat a V8, or a turbo import.....but what about Commodores and Falcons?

Ta

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36944-non-turbodisappointing/
Share on other sites

im his mate, man dont be disapointed with it, there awesome cars, ive beaten old v8 statesmans, any v6 commy or falcon, i cam dead even with a mates ex persuit v6 commodore and those things push over 200kw's at the fly wheel, if u can drive the thing it shouldnt be a problem, i also slaughter all the ca18det 180's and silvias as long as there not modded. though mine isnt exactly stock its not far off it, and im talking with out the power adder aswell.

it still a damn reliable car with a great interior and one that handles and stops like no other.

straight line power isn't everything... ever taken a corner in a commonwhore? or a falcon? like driving a bus! and their braking feels like the pads are made of cotton wool!

handling + braking + confort + practicallity + performance = good car

R33GTS has its finger in the pie of each of the above categories makign it a good car...

To be honest I was dissapointed with the turbo in stock form.

Had a VS V8 5speed with 3.5" exhaust when I first picked it up. Was extremely dissapointed with that, did mods was a little happier but it was laggy/gutless as crap below 3500rpm. Then things started to break. First the rear irs chassis then the gearbox then the diff. All within 9 months.

So.. it comes down to ones expectations.

Thanks for the info guys....c i had a GTST r33 stockie as a learner car...so i guess the drop was kinda big....but my dad said he wants my to drive a n/a on my own for at least six months so that i dont die.

Tell him to put u through one of those driver training courses.

Skid pan.. :D

They are good fun, teach you a lot :D

I remember when I first got my license, that is really what I needed. I didn't realise how dangerous some of the things I did were. I was lucky.

Thanks for the info guys....c i had a GTST r33 stockie as a learner car...so i guess the drop was kinda big....but my dad said he wants my to drive a n/a on my own for at least six months so that i dont die.

very good idea, get used to it then get a powerful car

NA_33 left out the bit where he was beaten by a non turbo R31 (mine)

Going fast in a straight line takes stuff all skill in a normal road car. You will be a better driver if you learn to corner/slide/brake/apply power in a controlled environment - like a skidpan, driver training centre, or track.

The 31 on the skidpan below set the quickest time round that track last skidpan. There were 8 R33 GTS-t's there i think. A turbo isn't the be all and end all. I want one so bad it hurts, but driving a slower/inferior car taught me a lot more than driving a good fast car would have. You need to learn to drive, not win red light drag races.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...