Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i know this is sorta off topic, but the new r35 skyline. does it come in different model varients, instead of just GT-R. all ive been hearing and reading is all about this GT-R. but does it have different types like the r33's and and r34's, such as GTR/GTST,GTS,GT etc. or did they only do a GTR this time?

i know this is sorta off topic, but the new r35 skyline. does it come in different model varients, instead of just GT-R. all ive been hearing and reading is all about this GT-R. but does it have different types like the r33's and and r34's, such as GTR/GTST,GTS,GT etc. or did they only do a GTR this time?

Nup. R35 GT-R is on its own. No "Cheaper Skyline" variants.

Closest "skyline" is probably the V36 series Skylines in terms of components.

i know this is sorta off topic, but the new r35 skyline. does it come in different model varients, instead of just GT-R. all ive been hearing and reading is all about this GT-R. but does it have different types like the r33's and and r34's, such as GTR/GTST,GTS,GT etc. or did they only do a GTR this time?

i believe it is only the gtr with the interior seat differences and the exterior colour differences

why couldnt they have released cheaper models, or a rwd model to compete with other brands. its just stupid i think, them trying to compete with european supercars, instead or japanese monsters

Errr...

After the R34's, they continued on the "skyline" badge in the form of the v35, and the v36 then replaced that in the last few years. That, along with the 350/70z, forms the "lower spec rwd" model your looking at (v35-6 series has a range of engine and spec options). To that effect, the R35 GTR is not a skyline. Nowhere does it say it is.

Edited by sneakey pete

What's equivalent to the old 1998-2002 GT-T or GTR skylines nowadays where you get bang-for-buck performance? That's not for 200,000 dollars or for a super-car? A car that is able to be built up and not bought? Something for like 60,000 dollars where mods are not so restrictive? Also a car that can retain the feeling of a RWD / AWD and manual transmission. How about the nissan 370Z? What is a car that has heaps of street credit? Or is there no such thing these days?

there isn't all the bang for buck performance cars are hot hatchs which are all FWD!

Errr...

After the R34's, they continued on the "skyline" badge in the form of the v35, and the v36 then replaced that in the last few years. That, along with the 350/70z, forms the "lower spec rwd" model your looking at (v35-6 series has a range of engine and spec options). To that effect, the R35 GTR is not a skyline. Nowhere does it say it is.

^^ This

+ there was a Nissan Skyline V37, one of the latest in the V-Series Skylines.

i know this is sorta off topic, but the new r35 skyline. does it come in different model varients, instead of just GT-R. all ive been hearing and reading is all about this GT-R. but does it have different types like the r33's and and r34's, such as GTR/GTST,GTS,GT etc. or did they only do a GTR this time?

Nissan dropped the 'Skyline' name and just called it a Nissan R35 GTR.

Pretty much pursued the Super Car market while keeping the 350Z / 370Z at the Sports / Performance Levels.

yeah the segment is a bit down compared to 15 years ago but there are still some good ones if you are willing to think outside the box a bit.

golf R or GTI are great.

scirocco R or GT also great (even better than the golf).

370Z is one. pretty good but aftermarket is limited.

hmm struggling to think of many others right now but even stuff like RX8s can be fun with the right bits.

the obvious ford XR6 make a pretty rapid highway type car but not as much use in the twisties or circuit but for drag and the odd blast up the freeway they are good stuff.

why do so many people hate FWD cars? i'd hazard a guess that 95% of haters have never driven a decent front wheel drive and have probably only driven some crappy base model corolla or something like that. a decent fwd car is nice to drive. as many of you know, the missus has a SSS pulsar and even though it's 11 years old it still handles well, and compared to my mums corolla from the same year it feels a lot better.

look at the lap times the hot hatches get around the topgear test track. some of them are pretty impressive. too many people just dismiss them because they can't do fully kebab spec drifts. there is too much misinformation out there, usually spouted by people who have no idea what they are talking about.

as for a xr6 being scarey at 110kmh, seriously grow a pair. did it have aftermarket suspension and/or wheels? and what was the road like? if yes to wheels/suspensio then that may be part of the problem. hard suspension mixed with bigger wheels on a rough road will make any car, including a skyline, handle like shit. my sister in law's ex boyfriend has a xr6t that is lowered with bigger wheels and i've been through some twisty roads in it at speed and it felt pretty good. i also drive a vt wagon with 18's and crapped out stock suspension and poor wheel alignment (siezed tie rod on the drivers side so until i get around to heating it up to crack it it will have to stay the way it is) and even it isn't that bad. it isn't great, but it isn't terrible.

Ive only driven one highly powered fwd car, and it handled well through the twisties due to the weight or lack there of, but you couldnt get too happy with the throttle mid corner to power it out, Sure you carry a lot of speed in though. I cant speak for everyones hate towards them, but the main reason i would never buy a decently powered fwd is simply torque steer,

Edited by cannabiscorpse

Ive only driven one highly powered fwd car, and it handled well through the twisties due to the weight or lack there of, but you couldnt get too happy with the throttle mid corner to power it out, Sure you carry a lot of speed in though. I cant speak for everyones hate towards them, but the main reason i would never buy a decently powered fwd is simply torque steer,

engineering has pretty much cured torque steer.

I hate the feeling of understeer,

anybody mention the hyundai genesis, coming to aus apparently? only skimmed through most of the posts. seems to be a good base for tuning potential if you go for the smaller turbo motor

from what I read in the US they have the option of a 4banger turbo or a more powerful na V6, more potential for bang for buck aftermarket upgrades with a turbo motor

I used to race some pretty worked Peugeots both on the track and in motorkhana/khanacross. Them being a front wheel drive was never an issue. In fact, on the skidpan I preferred it; Skull dragging through a handbraked turn is wicked fun!

Let's face it kids. It's the end of an era. With pollies forcing global warming down our necks, and the impending depletion of fossil fuels. Makers pulling out of motorsport, investing R&D into future fuel sources and reducing our footprint on the planet through the cars that they make. Car manufacturers are of course going to proceed to create cars that the majority of us will buy; A-B Ecoboxes. As sad as it is to say, we're the last couple of generations to be driving anything of the sort. 100 years from now they'll all be trying to figure out how to add coils to their electric motors, or stabilise their hydrogen injection : / or something... lol.

But it's not all doom and gloom. Think yourself lucky to have been born in this tiny window that all of this stuff has come about. Keep having fun in your cars and remember that they aren't making any more, so try not to wrap yours around a pole so that J Lenno and Roger Farah's offspring have something to add to their inherited collections...Lucky pricks.

Edited by fastjetjockey

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...