Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently bought a HKS dump-pipe.

The pipe has no heat shielding, and I am concerned that the radiated heat will have an impact on hoses and

the engine bay in general.

Any suggestions how to control this?

Is this exhaust wrap (cloth) any good?

Personally I don't like the looks of it but can not think of an alternative ..

Any suggestions?

Thanks ... :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370896-heat-wrap-foil-what-works/
Share on other sites

Wrapping works well to keep the heat in the pipe and not in the bay, but it can lead to the pipe corroding and/or cracking. This depends on the material used, how well it is welded and braced/loaded etc. The corrosion can be due to the wrap gettign wet then staying wet (doesn't happen often because usually when it gets wet it's hot because you're driving.)

By far a better option is to get it coated by HPC or equivalent. If you do this on the outside, then the metal of the dump will run hotter so you can sometimes get some of the same failures that you see with wrapping, but perhaps less often. If possible, then getting coating on the inside also helps to keep the heat from actually transferring to the metal of the dump, which is doubly good. Not easy to do and not guaranteed to stay coated either, under the horrible conditions found in there.

Your other option is to use some ACL heat shield material or bend up some stainless sheet and mount heat shields in such a way that they lie between the hot dump and anything you don't want cooked. Best not to mount the shields off the dump itself. Best to mount them off other locations. The OEM heat shields are of course all attached direct to the manifold/turbo/dump and the attachment points transfer heat to the shield, but they're still better than nothing, so if you get desperate you can use a stainless hoseclamp or two to hang shields off the dump.

I didnt find my exhaust had any affect on under bonnet temps at all. Maybe if you are sitting still, idling for a long time then it will get hot. But otherwise the air flow while you are driving keeps things pretty cool.

Hi there,

Thanks for the replies and ideas ..

I will work something out, but even if the heat is transported away while driving there will

be heat soak when you park the car.

The car is also moved in the city and in London you are stuck alot in ridiculous traffic :(

(though I try to avoid this)

Exhaust wrap works a treat...don't worry too much about so called cracking and corrosion and what not...its not going to disintegrate in a week...the hks dump pipes are made very well and will outlast the car most likely...

Wrap it, if it cracks in a coulpe of years get a new one and wrap that, also efective tape/shielding on local parts works for me.

Wet it first and wear gloves and long sleeves, that s hit is itchy.

Hi!

Yes, the HKS is stainless steel .. I wanted to have something which outlasts the car ;)

It's a nice piece of hardware but the location of the lambda-sensor is awkward ..

I will try the wrap (since it seems to be easy to apply and is also not expensive)

Many thanks ....

Snice we're on the topic.....

I have a aftermarket matched length dump pipe for the twins that pass very close to the gearbox and I was thinking about wrapping it to avoid heating up the box.

What i want to know is should I wrap just this one pipe alone, or should I wrap the both to keep the temp similar in both and therfore velocity? and all that simmidimmi ?

Snice we're on the topic.....

I have a aftermarket matched length dump pipe for the twins that pass very close to the gearbox and I was thinking about wrapping it to avoid heating up the box.

What i want to know is should I wrap just this one pipe alone, or should I wrap the both to keep the temp similar in both and therfore velocity? and all that simmidimmi ?

wrap both, put a shield on the gearbox itself.

Ceramic coating is awesome and cost roughly the same as good quality heat wrap. The shop near me does ceramic coating for dump pipes for $100.

Skylines do run quite cool compared to some other cars. My uncles R8(modded a little) runs quite warm you can feel it.

My brothers car had a tissue touching the dump.... It caught fire.... Its a rotor. It was quite funny, we were like what the f**k is all this smoke. Then you see a tissue smouldering. To note, the car was not driven, just idling in the drive way for about 3 minutes.

My input is it does make a difference. Ive sat passenger in my both my skylines a couple times. My old skyline was heat wrapped the whole way to the muffler(overkill?). This one is only wrapped on the cat back. I can tell you there is a definite difference in passenger footwell temps esp on longer drives.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...