Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just been reading up through the epa guide lines and it states that no modified or aftermarket plenums are permited... So this means anyone with the greddy style plenum will have issues?

Just wanted to confirm with everyone. Anyone been done for it?

Cheers in advance guys. :-)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370950-aftermarket-plenum-not-epa-friendly/
Share on other sites

i think the answer to your question is yes and yes.

although i thought it came under the 1 intake modification rule, but based on what your saying thats not the case. if it says illegal then its illegal.

If that's what is in the guidelines, then you've answered your own question.

As to whether anyone has been picked up, that simply comes down to luck.

Some people probably have, some probably haven't... That's not to say it wont happen tomorrow.

and it would depend how it looks too

if its all grey dark and oem looking and looks standard you might be ok

if its got HKS and greddy plastered all over it with shiny parts and nice blue coloured joiners etc

then its likely to get more noticed

Get it engineered then its all legal. For the intake plenum you'd just have to make sure the tune is correct, as GTRR34 says because the AF is different.

Do all your intake mods at once before doing the engineers though, as it will be expensive.

not to mention that with all aftermarket ecu's being illegal, you therefore can't "make sure the tune is correct"

(even if the tune is better for the environment than stock) go nanny state!

not to mention that with all aftermarket ecu's being illegal, you therefore can't "make sure the tune is correct"

(even if the tune is better for the environment than stock) go nanny state!

my case.

f**kn stupid i reckon.

but im told that a stand alone ECU which is locked after a tune can be engineered.

its only PBacks that cant be eng'd.

or was I being trolled

I had a Greddy copy on my 180, the boys at EPA still passed the car, guess they like me

Aftermarket ECU's can be legal providing they pass a special emissions test (which i was told by Lou at EPA is about 3g and if you fail there goes your 3g) and it must be locked.

Well technically you can pass with remap since you cannot tell from visually checking but the problem is passing the a/f tesf they do, so even if you did get an ecu engineereed but it failed the emissions test it still doesn' t help.

I had a Greddy copy on my 180, the boys at EPA still passed the car, guess they like me

Aftermarket ECU's can be legal providing they pass a special emissions test (which i was told by Lou at EPA is about 3g and if you fail there goes your 3g) and it must be locked.

And how do you lock it? a factory ecu is considered locked but is it really locked?

Well technically you can pass with remap since you cannot tell from visually checking but the problem is passing the a/f tesf they do, so even if you did get an ecu engineereed but it failed the emissions test it still doesn' t help.

Unless im mistaken you first need to pass the emissions test before you can get it engineered.........

my case.

f**kn stupid i reckon.

but im told that a stand alone ECU which is locked after a tune can be engineered.

its only PBacks that cant be eng'd.

or was I being trolled

Once you pass the ADR emissions testing aka: "3k if you fail, tough. You have to pay it again".

Victoria, fail state.

you know what is really stupid..

Adding an aftermarket plenum and nothing else would have zero affect on emmissions and would actually make the car slower yet some how its deemed bad enough to consider it defectable..

f**kin victoria

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...