Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

6 x Xspurt 1000's and Proflow RB25 rail would be around $800 through me I think Mark, with all adapters.

Scotty - will that rail fit with the stock plenum? We are looking at going to E85 in the next few months, so I am interested in an injector upgrade.

I think so mate, the 1000's might be a tight fit, but the shorty 750's and 2000's are definitely no issue. I may even be able to get 1000's in the same shorter 1/2 length.

The SR20 rail kit I sell comes with a plenum spacer to help the 1000's clear the upper plenum. Perhaps you could do a similar thing to the RB plenum halves using bakelite or a similar insulating material, that way you would stop the heat transfer into the upper plenum also.

What paper filter are you using, I was told to be careful when use paper filter cause the ethanol can/does eat away the "glue" that holds the filter element to the casing

I'm using a speed flow 10 micron stainless sceen filter but the paper ones can go down to 5-6 micron which would be better

I am using twin Proflow stainless mesh filters, I haven't cleaned them in 3-4 years, since they were installed. I can't remember what micron they were...

The paper filters I have been buying were SX brand, suitable for alcohol fuels. (They have a similar 8an housing to the proflow/Speedflow style filters, and might just drop in to them.) I run the SX fuel reg in my car without issues so I knew it was good gear.

A little Googling reveals Arram as a Japanese manufacturer who make injectors, throttle bodies and carburetors.

Yeah, just wasn't much info and didn't know if these were common in rb20's or not.

Most of the stuff says 550cc, so should be all good, cheers. ;)

Hopefully it doesn't cost you too much dyno time to set them up, it can take a while to work out suitable lag times etc with unusual injectors, and you are paying good coin for every minute it's on the dyno.

Unless you have the lag time report with them? Might be worth trying to source one.

Hopefully it doesn't cost you too much dyno time to set them up, it can take a while to work out suitable lag times etc with unusual injectors, and you are paying good coin for every minute it's on the dyno.

Unless you have the lag time report with them? Might be worth trying to source one.

Never knew injectors even came with a "Lag time report" lol..

I was going to get them tested and flowed before I chucked them on anyway. I think they're a little old.. :P

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 years later...

To save starting a new thread.....

Is the contents of this thread still relevant?!?!

As in are the ID injectors still worth paying basically twice the price or are the EV1-Bosch items closer to the mark 5 years down the track?

(Looking for 11mm units to suit standard RB26 fuel rail to get me around the 400rwkw mark on E85...)

ID1300x or 1250cc.....?!?

 

 

Edited by mr_rbman

There are better options (than ID specifically) and have been for years.  You should perhaps PM Scotty to find out what he can do for you.

Basically, if you can get unmolested EV14 injectors in the size you need, that is best approach.  But even the ones that have been decapped are pretty good.

5 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

There are better options (than ID specifically) and have been for years.  You should perhaps PM Scotty to find out what he can do for you.

Basically, if you can get unmolested EV14 injectors in the size you need, that is best approach.  But even the ones that have been decapped are pretty good.

I had tried pming Scotty before posting but either his inbox is full or there's an SAU issue as i just get an error saying he can't receive messages, or something similar....

Cheers for the reply though....

I do have the 1250cc injectors that Kudos sell in my 'cart' but after reading a few threads on here and then googling I was having second thoughts....

Tier 1 - ID 

Tier 2 (½ the price) - Bosch Motorsport

Tier 3 (aka shit and not worth it, also ¼ the price) - Everything else

Genuine Bosch Motorsport '040' injectors with adapters for RB26 manifold would be the go. I'm sure NZEFI sell them as a kit.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...