Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm in need for a new brake setup for my r32 gtr, I have considered many possible options...

Now with the standard r32 gtr caliper spaced out with dog bone adaptors using 324mm rotors, obviously the standard size pad won't be using the entire Rotors surface.

1) could you use r34 gt-t front pads? Are they even bigger? I'm assuming so as they use 310mm rotors?

2) can you get bigger pads in the standard caliper that would sit lower utilizing the rotors surface more effectively?

Any info from guys running this setup and what pads they are using would be great

Cheers

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

The whole point of the dogbones to push normal GTR calpiers out to the 324mm rotor position is that the main aim of the game is to have a bigger, heavier rotor to absorb more braking power (heat) and to increase the working radius of the braking force (more stopping torque). Whether you don't quite use all the sweepable area of the rotor is not quite as important as the substantial gains for little coin.

1)Yes, you can use R34 gtt pads in your R32 caliper. No, they have exactly same area as your pads. Yes, gtt uses 310mm rotors

2)Yes, you can use bigger pads in your current caliper, see attached pix, pads with same as factory mounting holes but with larger area do exist, but why would you want to do that?

post-36390-0-69513900-1315129530_thumb.jpg

post-36390-0-45009800-1315129635_thumb.jpg

Hey did any of you guys find that the dogbones hit on the bottom suspension arm thingy(don't know the proper name) when on full lock?

Noticed this on mine last night, 33 btw. I'm not overly concerned as it's only costing me about 15mm of lock just curious.

Apologies for the hijack op

Yep, full UAS 33 gtst kit, even has the car details embossed on the side. The other funny thing is John told me I'll have to grind a coue of mm off of the bottom of the hub to fit the caliper into the dogbone but in my case I didn't need to.

I am on the iPhone at the moment but I'll post up pics later.

I run 324mm rotors with R32 calipers on my C34 series 1 stagea - got the rotors (350z) and dogbones from concept Z performance, to suit 300zxTT - http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=882&Car_Type=300&UID=20110905030601121.45.45.237

Also run 324mm rotors with wilwood calipers / dogbones on the R32 rb26 tracksedan.

I don't think they would fit. R32 GTR calipers use 296mm rotors, Z32 and R32 GTSt use 280mm, caliper mounting "legs" are 8mm longer on BNR32, so you would have to find 324 + 8*2 = 340mm rotors with those dogbones.

Edited by Legionnaire

shipping was around 200usd. I'm using on a r32 gtst, from 280 to 324mm. Excellent brake upgrade for the cost. I would like to purchase 322mm 350z brembo rear rotors and a spare dogbone adapter set I've got but unsure if it would fit/work. Haven't got the money spare to trial it, so I'll leave it as a thought...

<br />I don't think they would fit. R32 GTR calipers use 296mm rotors, Z32 and R32 GTSt use 280mm, caliper mounting "legs" are 8mm longer on BNR32, so you would have to find 324 + 8*2 = 340mm rotors with those dogbones.<br />
<br /><br /><br />

They actually end up being 343mm dia from memory.

I have a set of these offset brackets and a set of R32 GTR calipers and have dummied them up on my hub.

They look have the same offset as a 370Z rotor once mounted, but obviously they'd need to be machined down from 356mm; but I'm dubious as to whether a disc this large will actually fit deep enough into the rotor pocket in the caliper for this to be a viable upgrade.

I'm looking to fit these up again soon to check my maths again, as it's a fair expense to cut down a set of fairly pricey rotors, only to find they don't fit.

Aren't those 343mm brakets a different kit altogether?

I mean, basic maths says that 280->324 kit offsets Z/R32 caliper by 22mm. Used with caliper designed for 296mm rotor, same offset gives 296 + (22 * 2) = 340mm rotor diameter

Aren't those 343mm brakets a different kit altogether?

I mean, basic maths says that 280->324 kit offsets Z/R32 caliper by 22mm. Used with caliper designed for 296mm rotor, same offset gives 296 + (22 * 2) = 340mm rotor diameter

You're quite likely to be correct; 3:00am maths isn't my strong point...whistling.gif

I'll take the 5th on that, but I still wasn't able to find a straight fit rotor with the correct offset; other than the 370Z rotor. And I'm not keen to remove that much from a rotor if I don't have to.

Thanks for the PM, interested to see what's available.cheers.gif

340mm rear rotors from performane friction with gtr calipers didnt work that well. I used rear rotors because they have a more suitable anulus for nissan calipers and pads.

just didnt work when trial fitting so never bothered actual resting. Z/R32 calipers work best with 324 rotors. If 324rotors arent getting the job done then its time for an upgrade...there are enough relatively cheap options these days that its easier to upgrade.

They are just about the best and really only budget upgrade you can do ...but is limited in what you can achieve

Roy, can't you just fit larger pads, as per OP's suggestion? Or was it caliper curvature that was wrong (too small) for the rotor? Or some inherent problems with PFC rotors that prevented them from working?

Roy, can't you just fit larger pads, as per OP's suggestion? Or was it caliper curvature that was wrong (too small) for the rotor? Or some inherent problems with PFC rotors that prevented them from working?

There are two inherent problems with the Sumitomo calliper (for track work).

1. The calliper itself flexes under load - hence you will always have a mushy pedal - doesnt matter if you install a brake cylinder stopper and braided lines it wont entirely remove the problem.

2. The pad area (Dont worry about radius etc etc) is small. The photo below is of a pair of pads - one from an F40 and one from a Sumitomo calliper. The smaller size means more heat for the pad. I found a big difference in pad life between the two callipers - then another change when I swapped rims to a more open design (CE28 versus an old BLitz 2 piece). Another gain is from brake hoses/ducts.

By the way anyone imported Ferodo DS2500's recently?

post-5134-0-58143100-1315353540_thumb.jpg

There are two inherent problems with the Sumitomo calliper (for track work).

1. The calliper itself flexes under load - hence you will always have a mushy pedal - doesnt matter if you install a brake cylinder stopper and braided lines it wont entirely remove the problem.

2. The pad area (Dont worry about radius etc etc) is small. The photo below is of a pair of pads - one from an F40 and one from a Sumitomo calliper. The smaller size means more heat for the pad. I found a big difference in pad life between the two callipers - then another change when I swapped rims to a more open design (CE28 versus an old BLitz 2 piece). Another gain is from brake hoses/ducts.

By the way anyone imported Ferodo DS2500's recently?

I totally agree with your first point, but not everyone has money/needs/wants F40/F50 or any other a/m caliper, because stock calipers are OK for light track work, and while I hate soft and mushy pedal myself, it can still be improved somewhat with MCS and braided lines.

the #2 - sumitomo pad area is small. Why not to use larger pad that fits the caliper? Is there some working penalty to this? Given the same friction compound, braking force won't change, cause area is irrelevant to force, but heat transfer, heat generation and distribution will be better in larger pad. Or Am I getting it wrong?

There's a limit to how stiff the pad backing plate can be, which places a limit on how far away from the edge of the pistons it is sensible to have the edge of the pad. If the pad were made, say, 100mm wider than the original pad, just to pick something obviously silly, then the force put into the back of the pad by the piston will not be transferred evenly to the whole pad/disc interface, because the outside edges will deflect away from the disc. So you could put a slightly bigger pad in, but at some stage you have to expect to not gain anything from a bigger pad. And worse, once pad/backing starts to bend, then it will possibly lead to it breaking up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
    • What ECU are you running? This is probably the biggest question. If it's a PowerFC, I'd probably change the ECU and get something newer that will handle the injectors in a nicer way.
×
×
  • Create New...