Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a turbosmart bov, so yesterday getting ready to install it I removed the stock bov plumb back pipes and blocked the holes in the remaining piping, so that my stock bov would vent to atmosphere. The car now almost stalls when it idles blows lots of smoke and backfires when trying to drive.

If I floor it, the car takes off fine and the only way to make it idle is continually rev it.

When i checked under the bonnet I noticed if i put my hand over the bov hole the car idles properly..

Any help would be awesome, is it just the stock bov trying to vent to atmosphere thats causing this and will it fix itself when I install the turbosmart bov?

Thanks

Edited by tomgtr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376649-running-like-crap-unless-i-flog-it/
Share on other sites

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a turbosmart bov, so yesterday getting ready to install it I removed the stock bov plumb back pipes and blocked the holes in the remaining piping, so that my stock bov would vent to atmosphere. The car now almost stalls when it idles blows lots of smoke and backfires when trying to drive.

If I floor it, the car takes off fine and the only way to make it idle is continually rev it.

When i checked under the bonnet I noticed if i put my hand over the bov hole the car idles properly..

Any help would be awesome, is it just the stock bov trying to vent to atmosphere thats causing this and will it fix itself when I install the turbosmart bov?

Thanks

Yes, your new BOV is causing all the problems, as it creates an air leak out of the system that the AFM and stock ECU can't account for..... Get rid of it.

I've actually got a copy and paste space where this is. Read on.

I love these threads.

You love the noise - and put the BOV on the car to be a wanker. Its scientifically proven that if you're a wanker, the first thing you do when you buy a Skyline is install a vent to atmosphere blow off valve, to advertise the fact that you are indeed, a wanker.

Do you even know how the Nissan air intake system works? There is an AFM that measures the air entering the engine. The Stock BOV recirculates FOR A REASON. When your duck whistle, twisty whooshy twirly, dick pulling, sparkly, spinny, shiny, noisy, fuleh sic, wank off valve opens, it dumps air that the engine has measured and allocated fuel for. When only half the fuel gets into the cylinder because the air it measured is at the street corner where you sped up erratically and backed off because you saw some women on the corner, thinking that when they heard your BOV they'd get naked and run and dive into your car, the engine is now overfueled and under oxygenated, and stalls, backfires, and carries on. You know why? Because you've created a MASSIVE AIRLEAK on a system that will not run with airleaks.

Do you like that fact that you will foul your plugs constantly?

Do you also like attracting the cops attention?

Do you like the risk of being defected and having to pay money for a BOV that didn't need to be there?

Do you like the fact that you are just making skylines more hated? (And don't worry, its almost a guarantee that you'll drive through the main street of town making it release "because you like the wank off sound")

Do you like it how women love the sound, get naked and dive into your car as you drive past?

Do you think SAU will be happy about another "My car is running rough, I only installed a duck whistle, twisty whooshy twirly, dick pulling, sparkly fuleh sic wank off valve" thread

They should create a database script that bans people that install BOVs "just for the sound" or complain when their car runs rough...

I'm was running 300rwkw and had the stock BOV.

Good luck with it though.

Edited by The Mafia

When only half the fuel gets into the cylinder because the air it measured is at the street corner where you sped up erratically and backed off because you saw some women on the corner, thinking that when they heard your BOV they'd get naked and run and dive into your car,

Is this not how one gets women?

When only half the fuel gets into the cylinder because the air it measured is at the street corner where you sped up erratically and backed off because you saw some women on the corner, thinking that when they heard your BOV they'd get naked and run and dive into your car...

c'mon everyone knows BOV's don't get women naked, screw the bov go block it off and run a metal intake pipe and go tu tu tu... doseing gets chics naked lol :woot:

The simple answer is, the BOVs re circulate air on low throttle and idle areas (they are open).

The ECU is tuned to run well while this is taking place.

Block the recirc pipe and the car will run like ass because the system has a big airleak.

It runs fine when you boost it because the boost pushes the BOVs closed and you have a sealed system again.

Hook it all back up or get proper aftermarket choof choof BOVs so you can get teh ladies.

lol I bet this guy wasn't expecting to be owned so hard for a seemingly harmless thread...

what is wrong with stock BOV sound? they sound fkn amazing on my gtr, I reckon the next upgrades u should get are:

22inch chromies - with spinners

a Queen Street paint job - candy apple pink or toxic green

and maybe lower the car about 10 inches so its undrivable.

That should get u all the attention u need :)

Ahaha 22 inch chrome spinners!

That will actually fix the stalling problem too. the reflection from the chrome diffuses the air escaping and causes the ECU to reroute the encryptions and adjust the stall converter.

I thought it was because the spinners counteract the effects of gravity, thus preventing the car from stalling.

Seriously though, atmo bov's are gay and not necessary. On my 32GTSt I've just gone to a full 32R cooler setup with the twin bov's and recirc pipe, welded a 2" return for the bov's to my stainless intake pipe and running a stainless mesh pod.. It's actually quite noisy!

lol I bet this guy wasn't expecting to be owned so hard for a seemingly harmless thread...

If the OP searched he would know that any BOV thread ends up degrading to something like this.

Unless the OP made a search and thought fark it....Mafia has been a bit quiet lately. :devil:

Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before.

Please use the search function in future. it may be found here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums

While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years.

If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

(Lol wonder if I'll get hammered for posting this)

no.jpg

Edited by The Mafia

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...