Safe Boost & Power Level

[itshimdazza]

whos running a stock motor with a hypergear turbo & what boost & powere your making?

Regards,

Dazza

[SargeRX8]

I am. 20psi I should have 300 but sitting on 250ish. apart from little small issues probably not related to the turbo or power it self, its great. Just seems like a fussy turbo so to speak as everything needs to be pretty perfect on the intake and exhaust side to get the desired results. I recommend over any other turbo for a stock motor. If, though, response is not a concern, get a kando.

[zebra]

How did you miss the 40 pags Hypergear thread?

[itshimdazza]

good call yes..

but I am a little concerned with mixed responses about what a stock motor can handle..

I was using the 15psi actuator until coil failures waiting on a tune but talking with Stao i advised that i wanted 18-20psi (using a DSBC) and he advised the motor may not handle it , then in the next sentence advised to get the 20psi actuator So ai guess you will see why I am a little confused

hence the question..

Dazza

Edited October 2, 2011 by itshimdazza

[89CAL]

I've run 18psi all day every day for the last 6 months on a stock motor. It's about as much as I personally want to throw at it but I think others have gone higher

[JonnoHR31]

23psi here with too much timing aswell. 2 big ends just touched the crank and were lightly scratched but not enough to kill it.

18psi is fine if the tune is fine

[scotty nm35]

I think it really depends how you drive Dazza, long squirts will cause higher piston and exhaust temps, waiting until the engine oil is up to operating temp before thrashing it could help too, but in reality with double the stock power your unopened engine is close to its limits, and so is the fuel. Are you planning on an e85 tune down the track?

[itshimdazza]

Scotty,

I dont any long quirts only the odd up to the limit and accasional overtake. But since its my daily it rarley gets the full boost so I dont think that will be a problem, I have the 650 injectors but dont plan on a E85 tune in the near furure.

I am runnnig @ 230 rwkw on say 14-15 psi presently and hopefully when i get the tune finished with the 20psi actuator on friday i hope this will be the end of it, maybe 250 to 280 (for a while at least, lol)

Dazza

Edited October 2, 2011 by itshimdazza

[gotRICE?]

A member on here has run 17psi with a GT3076 on an unopened RB25 for 100,000km.

So if your tune is good, and you treat it right, no reason why it wont last.

[krzysiu]

Been running 280rwkw @ 18psi for 2 years on a gt3076. Stock motor. No problems

[R31Nismoid]

Hard to compared the Garrett items, remember the HG items are not running as large of a rear housing and hence they always fall off around 7000rpm where a 3076 never will. So it'd be interesting to see just how much hotter everything is for the same power levels etc.

Either way there is no "magical" number. 260-270rwkw/18psi would be the smart choice with a good tune. Should last quite a good while.

[GTScotT]

Yes 280kw seems to be the limit of reason, aiming for 260-270 seems like a smarter choice as mentioned.

The motor will happily see 300kw but it is a fairly mixed bag when it comes to long term longevity of the motor. I know people that live long and prosper with a 300kw RB25 and others who would kill one in a 'piece of string' scenario.

However I would say 20psi is not as much of a problem as 300kw is. I would rather run a little less timing up top and a little more boost to get the desired output. Focus more on mid range for your torque.

[89CAL]

I was told 20psi was pushing the limits of the head gasket and/or head studs? Is this not the case?

[GeorgesR34]

20psi is fine as long as it's been safely tuned. I'm making 287rwkws at 19psi out of their .63 OP6 high flow for over a year. No issues of what so ever.

The ATR43SS1PU runs a big .84 rear housing with top notch response using what they call fnt turbine setup so judging by size its not getting hotter then any thing else in its HP range.

How ever they are very skeptical with free flow intake and exhaust, So make sure you have them before taking to the tuners.

I'm unsure what actuators Stao fitted onto your turbo, ask them to supply a stronger actautor only if boost drops below expectation with act of boost controller. how ever it could also be none actuator related.

Edited October 2, 2011 by GeorgesR34

[JonnoHR31]

I was told 20psi was pushing the limits of the head gasket and/or head studs? Is this not the case?

not the case. boost pressure isnt the be and end all when it comes to reliability. just use it as a rough guide.

aslong as there was no knock and temps were kept under control theres no reason you couldnt run 30psi with a standard h/g and head bolts

[DVS JEZ]

20psi is fine as long as it's been safely tuned. I'm making 287rwkws at 19psi out of their .63 OP6 high flow for over a year. No issues of what so ever.

The ATR43SS1PU runs a big .84 rear housing with top notch response using what they call fnt turbine setup so judging by size its not getting hotter then any thing else in its HP range.

How ever they are very skeptical with free flow intake and exhaust, So make sure you have them before taking to the tuners.

I'm unsure what actuators Stao fitted onto your turbo, ask them to supply a stronger actautor only if boost drops below expectation with act of boost controller. how ever it could also be none actuator related.

the FNT nozzles are adjustable, so if there is an issue with boost drop a change of nozzles that is supplied with the ATR SS may be required

[Room42]

I am about to head down this path myself with a gt3582r. I'm going to push the engine as far as the fuel pump will allow as that will be my limiting factor. I find it interesting that people are always referring to a "safe" tune. In my opinion there is either tuned "properly" or its not. When I tune a car it doesn't knock and the afr's are "normal" ie: 12:1ish at full load. How else would you tune your car? You sure as hell wouldn't tune it so it knocks excessively. In saying that you run as much timing as you can whilst still making power. You wouldn't run 5 degrees less than it could handle when you could run 5 more and it still doesn't knock. Sure you can run more or less fuel at full load. My point is that when I hear people talking about a safe tune it makes me wonder if they actually know how to tune a car. When you are pushing an engine to high hp levels you get the tune right or you f**k your motor quickly.

I should have it dyno'd in about a month so I'll let ya all know how it goes. Check out SimonR32's car for reference to this thread.

[zebra]

safe tune = a tune that wont go anywhere near the engines limits no matter if its 50degs outside or -50deg, or WOT at 8000rpm in 5th gear up a hill etc.

Simply doing a 7 sec run on a dyno in 4th doesnt show how the car will react on the road/track

[zebra]

Think of it this way.

Race car gets tuned by you on a dyno...a few runs in 4th gear with the dyno fan on flat out.

Goes out on track and is following a car for 2-3-4 laps with bugger all airflow through the intercooler/radiator....IAT's go to over 100degs...and ping ping ping ping BANG

same can be applied to the road but not to the same extreme

[R31Nismoid]

Ye there are street tunes and track tunes certainly. You can generally be a little more agressive on a street car as it's not doing flat out 3-6 laps at a time.

Where a street car with a bit of spirited driving, won't be going near those types of temps.