Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If the heater still works, no. But you need something to demist the front window. A/C or heater.

yeh this.

their excuse for this is that if the car is cold the heater wont demist the front window, making the removal of A/C ileagle.

best headlights have to go to Nissan President 6 gun projectors

nissan_president_pgf50_02.jpg

this, awesome headlights

see the projectors in a cima once was tuff

Its been in there for about a year so im sure its dirty

have you removed the entire system? or is the pump/lines still there?

I would just tell the guy you got the diff reconditioned and it clunks because it is yet to wear in, at least that is what the diff place told you....

;)

Mine has quietened down significantly since using the Penrite 80w140; only clunks when the diff is really warmed up. can always put anti-chatter in if I get sick of it, but I like the performance too much :)

Yeh I got a black one so it looks stock

I got Sunday off billy happy to help out

I ordered a black one but got this awesome metallic red one in the mail instead..

Even though nobody sees it I feel it would be a crime to paint over it..

yeh this.

their excuse for this is that if the car is cold the heater wont demist the front window, making the removal of A/C ileagle.

i can defog my wimdscreen in 5 seconds by winding my window down so y should i need either

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...