Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If the heater still works, no. But you need something to demist the front window. A/C or heater.

yeh this.

their excuse for this is that if the car is cold the heater wont demist the front window, making the removal of A/C ileagle.

best headlights have to go to Nissan President 6 gun projectors

nissan_president_pgf50_02.jpg

this, awesome headlights

see the projectors in a cima once was tuff

Its been in there for about a year so im sure its dirty

have you removed the entire system? or is the pump/lines still there?

I would just tell the guy you got the diff reconditioned and it clunks because it is yet to wear in, at least that is what the diff place told you....

;)

Mine has quietened down significantly since using the Penrite 80w140; only clunks when the diff is really warmed up. can always put anti-chatter in if I get sick of it, but I like the performance too much :)

Yeh I got a black one so it looks stock

I got Sunday off billy happy to help out

I ordered a black one but got this awesome metallic red one in the mail instead..

Even though nobody sees it I feel it would be a crime to paint over it..

yeh this.

their excuse for this is that if the car is cold the heater wont demist the front window, making the removal of A/C ileagle.

i can defog my wimdscreen in 5 seconds by winding my window down so y should i need either

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's actually encouraging to be honest. my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 💪🏼 I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...
    • Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?
    • I'm having a problem. I think it was mentioned above somewhere but can't see it.  I'm stuck in the cycle of, sand, filler, low spot again, put filler, sand, low spot again, now i put filler again and a thicker portion which seems to have helped but I got low spots in other areas. In the image. Circled in red thats where the original low spot was and the shape is the same as the red out line. I've more or less fixed that (still low spot up the top but now I have low spots where the green circled part is.  Is likely the issue that I didn't start with a course sand paper? I sanded the filler with 240 to reduce the risk of not going to far but maybe the issue is that I'm only taking off enough material to remove some of the filler but not the high spots. I now started sanding with 120 and I think I'm seeing a difference. I did fix one dent the other 2 are f**ked and seems like I made another low spot which is indicated by the furthest green circle on the left handside. Any thoughts and solutions?   Also second image. All of these rock chips, can they be filled in with primer or do i need to fill them all with filler/putty? So many rock chips on mine lol.
    • Well, I had an Edward Lee's special edition odo windback car/motor with a RB25DET S2 and I put down 372kW with a good amount of track abuse for 1.5 years before the ring lands decided it didn't want to stick around anymore 🥲 But probably didn't help I kept on smashing try limiter on the track and a few skid pans.
    • That is correct,  I have a forged RB25/30det NEO hiding away safely and I wanted to use the very rare greddy vct adj cam gear on this new setup and so I just used the whole thing on my s1 instead of pulling it appear because I'm lazy af 😅🤌🏼
×
×
  • Create New...