Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The properties ive sold with solar have no bill or like no more than $40 seems to be beneficial though that's not taking into account upfront cost

See that's the confusing thing... my mum has heard the same from friends but then there's sparkies at work telling me it's useless

My parents get big elec bills so if the system cuts the price by as much as they've been told it will, or they become like those that pay small/no bills, it'd pay itself off in ~2 years considering their quarterly bill cost...

Solar is just like LPG, you give it long enough or use enough power during the day and it'll pay for itself. Like LPG, it won't be worth it for everyone...you need to add up all the figures and work out if it's worth it specifically for you.

Explain the reason please?

Mate has one and it's a bucket... onto its 3rd diff, wheel bearings have gone, wheel studs nearly sheared off yesterday, more clunks and rattles than my r33

I'd go FG 6 turbo for same/similar money

Grant yeah didn't think of the FG xr6t for the same price / same power as BF f6 you just don't get brembos

Wack some coilovers on and they go alright :P, is yours live axle Martin? Thinking of getting something else?

hmm winton or tokyo...

Just a minor price difference....

Bought the latest Motor Mag Bang for your buck. I always find it a good comparo

Toyota 86 - 10th

0-100: 6.96

400m: 14.89

Wakefield lap time: 1:13.49

Subaru Brz - 8th

0-100: 6.93

400m: 14.93

Wakefield lap time: 1:13.79

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...