Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The properties ive sold with solar have no bill or like no more than $40 seems to be beneficial though that's not taking into account upfront cost

See that's the confusing thing... my mum has heard the same from friends but then there's sparkies at work telling me it's useless

My parents get big elec bills so if the system cuts the price by as much as they've been told it will, or they become like those that pay small/no bills, it'd pay itself off in ~2 years considering their quarterly bill cost...

Solar is just like LPG, you give it long enough or use enough power during the day and it'll pay for itself. Like LPG, it won't be worth it for everyone...you need to add up all the figures and work out if it's worth it specifically for you.

Explain the reason please?

Mate has one and it's a bucket... onto its 3rd diff, wheel bearings have gone, wheel studs nearly sheared off yesterday, more clunks and rattles than my r33

I'd go FG 6 turbo for same/similar money

Grant yeah didn't think of the FG xr6t for the same price / same power as BF f6 you just don't get brembos

Wack some coilovers on and they go alright :P, is yours live axle Martin? Thinking of getting something else?

hmm winton or tokyo...

Just a minor price difference....

Bought the latest Motor Mag Bang for your buck. I always find it a good comparo

Toyota 86 - 10th

0-100: 6.96

400m: 14.89

Wakefield lap time: 1:13.49

Subaru Brz - 8th

0-100: 6.93

400m: 14.93

Wakefield lap time: 1:13.79

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...