Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

f*k i'm getting better at parking close to poles aye. I have to park next to a pole. And when I do, if i drive straight, mirror will just scrape the pole. Haha. Too many careless kids and people who slam doors.

I park next to a pole nearly every time. Only had one instance where I wasn't paying enough attention and the wheel arches on the Cube stick out a fair way from the body. Lucky I had the flares.

Mine were genuine too..

And birds it does no negative harm to have heat range 7's

Not harm, but takes longer for the spark plugs to reach optimal running temperature...when you're driving a daily on short trips it makes a difference. Always go as hot as you can without overheating - just like injectors, going as small as you can without running too much duty cycle.

Essentially, I could park our straight piped, externally gated S15 track car outside Knox police station...that short, fat asshole can write a Tom Clancy novel of defects for it...and then proceed to shove the whole notebook up his own ass using his tears as lubricant.

Cars have been defected on Trader Plates. So yeah, you kinda couldn't :P

Not harm, but takes longer for the spark plugs to reach optimal running temperature...when you're driving a daily on short trips it makes a difference. Always go as hot as you can without overheating - just like injectors, going as small as you can without running too much duty cycle.

I ran 7's on my SR20. Wasn't the greatest idea for a car being moved short distances occasionally. Would foul a set beyond use in 1000km's.

i was happy to sit on the limiter on a 40c day at DECA with a trent tune and never managed to get the light on....

jus sayin ;)

Btw I see you may have found 'da 1' e7 pending a check over ;)

:ninja: :ninja: :ninja:

Noice.

Edited by kaitoukid

If his name isn't Sven or Hans, you're being ripped off.

haha probably is I've just never asked :P

They are apparently well audi / vw / BMW

Hmm, still not sure man. I go to VolksHome in Thomastown because it's close to me

holy jeebize id love one but i dont think i could handle a bear haha

Nah those are big males, our female is much smaller

Dog or bear?

Nick would say Dog but its clearly a bear/beast id love to have this bad boy guarding the GTR but the fact that there bigger then me worries me

Yeah dog, although they do have a really strange smell about them that isn't dog at all

i've got a cat. feed, and ignore.

I prefer cats, I wasn't a big fan of dogs until we got Mechka though. She is the best with who know her

I ran 7's on my SR20. Wasn't the greatest idea for a car being moved short distances occasionally. Would foul a set beyond use in 1000km's.

That's why I recommend 6s, particularly if you have a conservative/rich tune. Stock engines run 5s okay...no reason anything this side of 300rwkw can't deal with 6s for daily duties with a thrashing here and there.

Btw I see you may have found 'da 1' e7 pending a check over ;)

:ninja: :ninja: :ninja:

Noice.

reading evolutionoz forums eh?

yeah, everything set to go as long as the compression holds up and there is no rust / structural damage

Not harm, but takes longer for the spark plugs to reach optimal running temperature...when you're driving a daily on short trips it makes a difference. Always go as hot as you can without overheating - just like injectors, going as small as you can without running too much duty cycle.

Fair point. I had to run em on the 200, I found at 270 with a four banger, 6 was just too warm

reading evolutionoz forums eh?

yeah, everything set to go as long as the compression holds up and there is no rust / structural damage

Ooo00000ooo got a link u care to pm me with?

i was happy to sit on the limiter on a 40c day at DECA with a trent tune and never managed to get the light on....

jus sayin ;)

Every car is different :)

Just going from a PFC to a PFC-Pro with identical tune, my knock went up by 15 - wasn't a problem with the tune, just the way the ECU was interpreting the signal, so it would hummmm along at 35 and it was totally fine (where previous it'd never go above 20).

His knock sensor could be picking up a little more noise than yours did. Either way 65 knock isn't great, but it's still not bad. Anything over 35-70 usually just means there is 1-2 cells that need attention. Misfiring will also cause the knock sensor to go nuts as well, same as hitting limiters etc.

Odi - wideband won't show you much either as by the time it's leaned off to a point that you'll notice, you've already done the damage (no-one stares @ a gauge when fully up it). Much the same as oil pressure dropping when @ 7000rpm, buy the time you notice/light comes on, the motor is f**ked anyway unless you are setting the ECU up to shut the car down in such a situation via a trigger/value/aux input, which a PFC doesn't have.

I'd suggest having the fuel pressure checked, possible the walbro is faltering now and again, I had one give issues like that 6-7 years ago. However with the misfire could just be a case of a loom/grounding issue. Even voltage supply, so not the coilpacks themselves either. Could also be the CAS playing up intermittently, they have a habit of doing that when they are letting go (you can get another 6-12 months out of them sometimes before they die and the car just wont turn on).

Nissan electricals are a headache :(

reading evolutionoz forums eh?

yeah, everything set to go as long as the compression holds up and there is no rust / structural damage

you know it :thumbsup:

haha exciting stuff. same as aaron... pm me if links available if you will hehe :P

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...