Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There was a bloke at High School who we always gave crap to because he drove around in his mums car and pretended it was his own.

We'd call it the "Baby Blue Honda Jazz"... and without fail he'd always yell "It's ICE BLUE!!!!" and when we gave him crap about it being auto, he'd say that autos were faster at the drag strip... *shakes head slowly*

Hmm you went to school with birds didn't you?

lol you go missing on the regular anyway...

Congrats dude! Take me for a ride? Still waiting for our red 86 to come :D

Yeah you're right, I do. Not as much time for forum whoring these days. Cut right back.

And sure, if you're there at the Dyno Day/Renewal Day on Sunday I'll be there. It'll be a sedate ride though, will be running it in.

And wow, fatherhood has turned Hamish into an angr(ier) man! It's okay, I won't try and infect you with my auto driving ways. Hey I had/still have auto FWD's and I'm female. All the stereotypes at once.

Avatar___All_My_Single_Ladies_by_Acaciat

Edited by llama_au

Yeah you're right, I do. Not as much time for forum whoring these days. Cut right back.

And sure, if you're there at the Dyno Day/Renewal Day on Sunday I'll be there. It'll be a sedate ride though, will be running it in.

do people still run in new cars?

Definately subscribe to this school of thought. Beat on dat engine yo!

What uni man?

SAU Daytona meet.

Monash Clayton man. Although majority of that time was when I was in first year. IN for SAU Daytona meet though, brush back up on dem drift skillz. + I'm always at Uni :P

Realised by 'hard' I think I meant 'advanced'. Ain't nobody got time for Expert :P

Edited by kaitoukid

Yeah I would probably go and beat on a new engine, all the mechanics do it when they rebuild engines nowadays too

Worst case scenario is it needs a rebuild, and on a BRZ that can only include forced induction :P

Yep, warm up your engine and then rev it out (dont limiter bash though)

That's what I did with mine and the tuner said it was making some really good power standard and I must of worn engine in well

Just drive it as you would if you bought it second hand...new cars are designed with the lowest common denominator in mind, who wouldn't consider running in periods. They couldn't afford to warranty new cars if they would break from driving it with a bit of stick. Think the engines are fairly run in / tested from factory anyway.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...