Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Shure for earphones. I always thought sennheiser were a bit overpriced or over bassy. But still shit on Bose.

Start spending anything north of $200 for anything other than sound cancellation and MP3's dont so the headphones justice.

Their early work was a little too new wave for my tastes, but when Sports came out in '83, I think they really came into their own, commercially and artistically. The whole album has a clear, crisp sound, and a new sheen of consummate professionalism that really gives the songs a big boost. He's been compared to Elvis Costello, but I think Huey has a far more bitter, cynical sense of humor.

hqdefault.jpg

who needs a Mic? you just plug your headphones in the mic jack

I remember plugging microphones into headphone jacks when I was younger...you did get a tiny bit of sound out of them

Hey guys, had some problems with the Evo over the past few days... can I bounce some ideas off you to help diagnose?

2 days ago the head unit (Aftermarket JVC Double Din Touch screen) just went blank and restarted as I was driving home.

1 day ago on my 50 minute drive home it happened 3-4 times, most of the time after I'd been sitting at a set of lights for a while, literally the second I let out of clutch and started moving forwards. So at this point I was thinking "Maybe a loose power connection at the back of the head unit?", but it always started back up immediately by itself.

This morning I was cruising along eastlink at a hundred, Head unit went off like all the times before but when it started up (and was playing the radio just fine), but there was a message on the screen saying "Power off unit". A few seconds after I noticed that the engine gave a shudder and lost power for a split second, a few reds came on the dash (engine shutdown) and then it restarted itself with momentum and being in gear. The Check engine light stayed on until I pulled over, turned the car off and back on. Drove fine with no loss of power for the remaining 20 minutes of the drive.

Head unit went off once more when I was pulling into the carpark at work.

Thoughts?

if I mysteriously go missing from the forums you know the Evo blew up

Son of a bitch, you shouldn't have said that!

Hey guys, had some problems with the Evo over the past few days... can I bounce some ideas off you to help diagnose?

2 days ago the head unit (Aftermarket JVC Double Din Touch screen) just went blank and restarted as I was driving home.

1 day ago on my 50 minute drive home it happened 3-4 times, most of the time after I'd been sitting at a set of lights for a while, literally the second I let out of clutch and started moving forwards. So at this point I was thinking "Maybe a loose power connection at the back of the head unit?", but it always started back up immediately by itself.

This morning I was cruising along eastlink at a hundred, Head unit went off like all the times before but when it started up (and was playing the radio just fine), but there was a message on the screen saying "Power off unit". A few seconds after I noticed that the engine gave a shudder and lost power for a split second, a few reds came on the dash (engine shutdown) and then it restarted itself with momentum and being in gear. The Check engine light stayed on until I pulled over, turned the car off and back on. Drove fine with no loss of power for the remaining 20 minutes of the drive.

Head unit went off once more when I was pulling into the carpark at work.

Thoughts?

Son of a bitch, you shouldn't have said that!

first thought

bad earthing?

  • Like 1

Where though, and why has it popped up only in the past few days?

Engine bay has a full high quality earthing kit which connects about 10 different places together, inc the battery itself.

Think I'll dig up the multimeter here at work and check battery and alternator voltages, though that'd surely show up with the battery light on the dash.

Perhaps an arc from a short made the ECU temporarily confused, or read the CAS wrong, and that caused a misfire or shutdown?

inb4 "Oh it does that... one of the reasons I sold it"

  • Like 1

Where though, and why has it popped up only in the past few days?

Engine bay has a full high quality earthing kit which connects about 10 different places together, inc the battery itself.

Think I'll dig up the multimeter here at work and check battery and alternator voltages, though that'd surely show up with the battery light on the dash.

Perhaps an arc from a short made the ECU temporarily confused, or read the CAS wrong, and that caused a misfire or shutdown?

inb4 "Oh it does that... one of the reasons I sold it"

well... it's been nice chatting with you all these last 19,562 posts...

  • Like 2

Where though, and why has it popped up only in the past few days?

Engine bay has a full high quality earthing kit which connects about 10 different places together, inc the battery itself.

Think I'll dig up the multimeter here at work and check battery and alternator voltages, though that'd surely show up with the battery light on the dash.

Perhaps an arc from a short made the ECU temporarily confused, or read the CAS wrong, and that caused a misfire or shutdown?

inb4 "Oh it does that... one of the reasons I sold it"

bolts come loose, just start checking connections.

after that check connections and current on alternator

then battery test

def sounds electrical tho

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
    • Good work to think to check that, and thanks for coming back to post up the outcome.
×
×
  • Create New...