Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why?

Cold start is a pain; no point having all the power I do when roads are wet half the time; I like to pickle the fuel system in petrol at least a couple times a year to clear any potential build up in fuel rail/injectors/lines; E85 isn't exactly cheap at the moment; will be doing some long distance driving soon and filling up anywhere plus 400km+ to a tank will be handy for that.

Also cold start issues have less to do with the tuner and more to do with when the vehicle was actually tuned - in my case the E85 tune was done in summer where a cold start tune is nowhere near the overnight temperatures of winter. I could get that fixed with a winter tune enrichment if I wasn't lazy, but that still won't resolve the other issues. The fuel on the whole doesn't like a cold engine; it's a good 5 minutes before you see any potential out of it. It's good to do a petrol run for a few tanks now and then.

Yeah mine's not starting at all now... Hasn't run for like 2 months, tried to start it a few weeks ago (N/A with turbo & intercooler bypassed) and it really didn't want to go...

Gotta get Chris to take a look at the coldstart now that it's winter, very not fun when you're cranking for ages and need to let it idle to warm up before you can even blip the throttle, when it's 5:30am and you're trying to leave for a racetrack.

Neighbours hatred is strong.

Cold start is a pain; no point having all the power I do when roads are wet half the time; I like to pickle the fuel system in petrol at least a couple times a year to clear any potential build up in fuel rail/injectors/lines; E85 isn't exactly cheap at the moment; will be doing some long distance driving soon and filling up anywhere plus 400km+ to a tank will be handy for that.

Get a proper tune/flex if you must.

Or tune it yourself, when my fuel pump actually decides to f**king pump fuel, my car will start in 1-2 cranks in 4C mornings on pure E85. Honestly the difference between starting on 98 and E85 is literally zero.

E85 is quite pricy though, and tbh I considered also just running around on 98 if I literally dailied the car because about 250RWKW of power never actuallyresults in any forward momentum.

But the cold start thing is a pretty huge myth.

I don't think it's a myth given my 98 tune was also done in summer and starts first time everytime all year long - E85 is more sensitive to cold starts, it needs a lot of flow with a cold engine otherwise a summer tune would do you fine through winter.

It can be remedied but ultimately it'll never be as good as 98 or a full flex tune. It's more evident in the more highly strung/tuned vehicles too - I'd hate to do it with a set of lumpy cams and a race car that rarely gets started.

Another consideration is the E content people get tuned on vs a more pure tank down the track. Prolly doesn't hurt to get a touch up tune regardless for fulltime E85 users. Might look into it for this alone.

It could be an ECU thing, but honestly man... starting the car on E75, or E21, or E0, or E84.9 (or whatever maximum ethanol content you ever see is) is... just not a thing.

Starting in summer, winter, I dunno. I read it all the time but it's not like it takes more than 2-3 seconds to have the car started, even with all the numbers wrong.

I have this feeling I just have much more tolerance for the car not starting. If I'm up and going in under 10s I consider that as good as perfect, but in all seriousness I just fired my car up 5 minutes ago and it's coolant temperature is 4C and it was ready to go without stalling or being retarded.

I'd only go back to 98 if I did drive it daily, or had a small turbo where the difference between E85 and 98 was like ~20kw.

E85 is still 20c or something cheaper than 98, say, 1.40 to 1.65, or 117% the cost, for what, 125% of the fuel use? For free powers?

Speaking of farting, did one of this sbd darts where your nostrils just rots...

Did one in my office thinking no other manager would come in yet since it was early in the morning. Nekminut, store manager comes and and yells did you f#ing fart? I smirked and he refused to come in making me come outside for him to talk to me.

Tough times were had keeping a straight face.

If that was the case them why did Caltex run an E70 mixture for their flex fuel during winter for easier starts? Petrol enriches the mix = easier starts. Try starting it on 100% ethanol and see how well you go! Like I said, it matters when your car was tuned. A car tuned on a 30 degree day or a 15 degree cold start is NOT going to bode well come Melbourne winter, not in a concrete underground carpark.

Just filled up with 59 litres of BP. How many litres is the 33 tank? 63? Already enjoying the very low end response (from idle to 2000rpm) of this tune. Lost that epic mid range, though. Should make safer full throttle driving in the wet.

I have a small turbo and in the top end E85 vs 98 is only 25rwkw difference but the midrange is about 40-45. It's no longer the performance bargain it was for the price it is now. Still worth it if you can take the low mileage and limited locations, but it's definitely lost some appeal thanks to United's monopoly tactics.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
×
×
  • Create New...