Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeh so you reccomend.. Is the car uncomfortable to drive with the mounts or as normal? Coz they aren't exactly solid they are just nismo poly urethane right?

Reason I wanted to as I saw it on the dyno and the motor moves a shit load, then Scott was trying tighten the wastegate and as he was pushing against it the whole motor moved. Don't know if fkd or just how it is but I didn't like it. How do you rate 'Megan' stuff? $250 +ship for engine and gearbox mounts, they are pretty much the nismo ones with a different brand stuck onto it

I used nismo so no idea on Megan, but vibration I did not notice any difference.

I only found pro's no cons.

and yeah they are a very very stiff mount not billet or anything thus "solid"

WIll prob get an engine dampener as well soon to make it a bit stiffer again!

less vibration = less wear in my books

I used nismo so no idea on Megan, but vibration I did not notice any difference.

I only found pro's no cons.

and yeah they are a very very stiff mount not billet or anything thus "solid"

WIll prob get an engine dampener as well soon to make it a bit stiffer again!

less vibration = less wear in my books

You can have my damper if u want I can't use it because of the heat shield. Let me know if u wanna take it.

You will feel more vibrations on idle, if you are fine with that go the harder material. I'd prefer the factory mounts.

It's got a lumpy idle from cams, so if I can tolerate that I guess a little vibration shouldn't be anything IDE worry about

It's got a lumpy idle from cams, so if I can tolerate that I guess a little vibration shouldn't be anything IDE worry about

yeah but if the vibration is causing some plastic to rattle behind the dash or something, that would drive me insane lol

f*cking sick people getting me sick. Stay the f*ck home if you are sick. Got a holiday next weekend, i better not be crooked.... 9 days to get over a cold? Will be a close one...

Lol 9 days to get over a cold thats heaps man. 2-3 days is all you need

You will feel more vibrations on idle, if you are fine with that go the harder material. I'd prefer the factory mounts.

I did solid mounts all round. The revs determined which new part of the car rattled and at what volume. It also made bolts and screws undo themselves lol

f*cking sick people getting me sick. Stay the f*ck home if you are sick. Got a holiday next weekend, i better not be crooked.... 9 days to get over a cold? Will be a close one...

Don't blame the sick people. I've been crook with the flu for two weeks and if I so much as dared to take a sick day (some days I've nearly collapsed at my desk) I'd be spoken to like I was doing the wrong thing and not setting a good example.

But 9 days, good luck. Hope you've got a good immune system, this one is nasty.

i had two bouts of flu/cough/sorethroat combo each about a week long and bad enough to give me shakes and night sweatswith about a week recovery in between. still coughing from the last one, and i leave for a bucks weekend on thursday.

yeah but if the vibration is causing some plastic to rattle behind the dash or something, that would drive me insane lol

lol yeh fair enough but not going full solid, jus polyurethane solid

f**king STOP IT!!!

lol its my iPhone, it automatically does it IDE never talk like that

I did solid mounts all round. The revs determined which new part of the car rattled and at what volume. It also made bolts and screws undo themselves lol

hence why not going solid but solid

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...