Jump to content
SAU Community

Hdi Intercooler Kit


dasic1
 Share

Recommended Posts

This one for $599 says its a GT2 pro which im pretty sure is the one

http://www.ebay.com....=item519b741234

That's a great find Andrew. They've really come down in price since I put mine in less than 2 months ago. I'm pleased to have supported Cam tho, since he put a lot of time into getting these early on. But you should jump on that deal & get it in before Christmas :thumbsup:

Edited by Commsman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This one for $599 says its a GT2 pro which im pretty sure is the one

http://www.ebay.com....=item519b741234

Yep, that's the one Andrew.

Just make sure that it is actually coming from HDi Australia.

They told me that they will not warranty any kit not bought from HDi Australia.

Edited by iamhe77
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nup....I have an crank angle sensor issue and if I cannot sort it next week I'm parting the car up.

Come on Craig, you can fix it. Don't let is beat you or else you will always be that guy.... lol.

Caveat - if the sum of all the parts is worth more than the car as a whole and you get a new one, then you will be THAT guy :thumbsup: .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If only I had the hours back that I have spent on the black POS.......Iain, Andy and I had another go at it last night and we are still no closer to truly knowing the issue. It is however looking more and more like a problem with the Throttle and the E-Manage.

It might just be a case of stripping the E-Manage out and going back to the standard injectors and ECU.........Before I do that however I will be hooking up an M800 briefly to do some logging as they have a build in sort of oscilloscope!

If I do go back to the standard ECU the e-manage will NOT be going back in......but other projects in the background may flourish!ninja.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why? I didn't think that was working on your car so why would it work on Craig's? whistling.gifThe only upside is the plug in loom.

Huh?

It was working fine on my car, what are you talking about Andy?

If I had put in the new fuel filter prior to the tune, it would have been perfect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1322221405[/url]' post='6127068']

Huh?

It was working fine on my car, what are you talking about Andy?

If I had put in the new fuel filter prior to the tune, it would have been perfect.

Sorry, very confused! Your comments of spongy throttle response and not fitted to your car led me to that conclusion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock R33 boost control, with the exhaust, and FMIC done, will boost creep. There is no tuning around it if it is the factory boost solenoid.   If it has an aftermarket electronic boost controller, the settings/mapping can be altered in it.   Oil could be anything as mentioned, however did it ever do it before you did the turbo swap? How much and how often did you drive the car before the swap?   I'm hinging on too much oil supply, or it's not draining properly.   To check, pull the air outlet off the turbo. Is it full of oil? Drop the exhaust at the turbo, does it appears to be oiled/coked? Now pull turbo and check the exhaust manifold, does it appears oiled and coked the same way?   Secondly, the PCV could even be stuffed / not functioning properly and will cause blowing of blue smoke.
    • Almost any ECU would work, from a 30 yr old PowerFC to a new Motec/Autronic. But presumably you want new middle of the road ECU, meaning that you want a Haltech or a Link, most likely. As to which model though? I dunno. I don't keep track of what they have in their current ranges. You don't want a plug in though, because plug ins can start to cause you the same wiring issues that you have to chase up with your stock ECU/loom swaps when an engine transplant is involved. If you use a Haltech (and presumably a Link) you could put the base map for the engine in and drive it around and not even need to "tune" it. It will work just fine. I can't recommend a tuner without a location (and even then I can't recommend many, being as I never use any tuners except myself and my brother-in-law). And not many tuners are happy to remote tune. Maybe they'd be happier doing it for a basically stock setup that just needs to be demonstrated to be working properly. But even then, not being able to be with the car to see what the hell is going on and sort out the inevitable problems that will result from an engine conversion done by an amateur..... unlikely to be enthusiastic about the job. And if you think that just adding 2 wires for the boost sensor is difficult - you don't want to be trying to install and set up an aftermarket ECU. You're going to have to bite down hard on something with either approach.
    • wired everything up and confirmed that the red with white stripe is indeed the fuel pump pin on this harness. 
×
×
  • Create New...