Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, an idea has been floating in the back of mind for a while as I've been looking for a way to increase the width of the ass-end of my R33 without going down the traditional crappy methods :

(The NO-NO's)

1) 400R flares

2) modified 240z-260z flares

3) GTR style fibreglass overfenders

4) or even going to the extend (and cost) of totally replacing the GTS25t rear fenders with genuine GTR items - if not performed correctly, it could actually throw the chassis alignment out the window if the person doesn't know their craft.

Anyways.. an excellent alternative to metal GTR items popped into my head a while back when I was driving past a VE Commodore. Those Holdens have EVIL wheel arches ! big enough for 22+ inch fitments and plenty chunky ! Now.....what about factory VE Commodore wheel arches grafted onto the original R33 rear guards ? I mean, one can always simply take a mould of the original VE flares in fibreglass and do the SLR5000 trick but I feel that doing it properly by welding metal-to-metal would be a more durable technique.

I did a little measuring, on the VE, the top of the rear wheel arch sits about 10 inches away from the bottom of the rear quarter glass - the Commodore has a relative high window line which makes it appear like a friggin oversized sand worm from an old sci-fi movie.....but that's on a VE.... Now, what if... I was to line up a VE wheel arch onto a R33 body, the top of the VE wheel arch sits right below the rear quarter glass, giving it a bulgy look. Im going to do a rough render / drawing of it when I get a chance...... Looking at the way the VE is assembled, it actually might be easier to simply chop up the front VE fenders and use them instead, but I just know its gonna work.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385577-ve-commodore-wheel-arches-on-a-r33/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

1996-nissan-gt-r-r33-nismo-400r.jpg

I'd go Nismo 400 R Flared arches.

Will most probably be a straight fit and just run a wide offset.

Thanks man !!! .... you're right dude ! WOW ..... Not being a smartass here lol.... but I picked up my R33 from Powerplay Imports over 10 years ago before 99% of you guys even dreamed of owning one, so yes, the 400R kit would be a straight fit AND she would also end up just like all the other 30,000,000,000,000,000 R33 out there..... I would then be calling it a MAJOR ORIGINALITY FAIL.......

Oh I forgot, people here want their cars to look just like every other members' ....

Edited by SMOK1106

This could look AMAZING if done right!

If it's done right, it would end up with a nice bulgy wide ass-end in METAL and not like this ugly plastic thing below..... I swear, who in their right frame of mind would actually slap on another 100 kg of fibreglass and body filler to make their car look like this ?? You know what's even more stupid ? The said person paid thousands to apost-72316-0-28051900-1325108351_thumb.gif shop in Qld for this pile of plastic crap !

post-72316-0-28051900-1325108351_thumb.gifpost-72316-0-55636600-1325108361_thumb.gif

post-72316-0-55636600-1325108361_thumb.gif

Edited by SMOK1106

go for it, i appreciate your guts to stand out from the pack and do something different. Kudos!

Keen for pics!

Thanks for not being a nay-sayer... Most of these people say 'no' simply because they're too damn lazy or too stupid to try something original.....I remember all the 'That wouldn't work' and 'That'd look shit' comments when we did a similar conversion to the ass end of a 260Z ( 4-bolt 350 Chev + raceglide + Jag diff = fully street registered and engineered) back in 1992, we wanted to give it the wide whale-tail look but we needed more width than what the factory plastic bolt-on flares could give us - we had to jam a pair of MT slicks under there..... we borrowed a pair of metal front fenders off another car and grafted those onto the outside of the rear arches .... I remember the looks we were getting at the old Eastern Creek circuit straight when she ran a 12sec flat off the trailer un-tuned. In the pit area, I distinctively remember people were coming up from all directions asking where we got that kit from. Gee didn't I wish all those nay-sayers were right there and then ?? enough said.

Will be posting visions as soon as the gas-axe comes out .... No guts, no glory.....

Thanks man !!! .... you're right dude ! WOW ..... Not being a smartass here lol.... but I picked up my R33 from Powerplay Imports over 10 years ago before 99% of you guys even dreamed of owning one, so yes, the 400R kit would be a straight fit AND she would also end up just like all the other 30,000,000,000,000,000 R33 out there..... I would then be calling it a MAJOR ORIGINALITY FAIL.......

Oh I forgot, people here want their cars to look just like every other members' ....

If you didnt want your car to look like a skyline why the f**k did you buy one in the first place. :rolleyes:

There is a 33 gtst in Perth that has porsche wheel arches welded on, I don't no the guy but seen the car and ask who pumped his guarded and then told me they are weld ons off a porsche, they looked good and wide but subtle enough not to look rediculous, had massive GTR offset TE37s under them,

You expressed your idea, the others expressed their opinions. Don't flame them for being "naysayers"

If you want to do it, then do it. Its your car.

QFT.

Whats the point of this thread? In your mind you've already decided to do it, so just do it.

Thanks man !!! .... you're right dude ! WOW ..... Not being a smartass here lol.... but I picked up my R33 from Powerplay Imports over 10 years ago before 99% of you guys even dreamed of owning one, so yes, the 400R kit would be a straight fit AND she would also end up just like all the other 30,000,000,000,000,000 R33 out there..... I would then be calling it a MAJOR ORIGINALITY FAIL.......

Oh I forgot, people here want their cars to look just like every other members' ....

cant say ive ever seen many good 400R replica with the flares and everything done right.

lotsa peeps with 400R front bars or bits, but not the whole thing done well.

the Commo guards could be interesting, but your inner guards prob wont work with the 22+ inch swallowing arches that a VE has.

doit! and let us see!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...