Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 231
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

to run a 10 in a full weight gtst, you will need good tyres, try aim for something better then ET street radials because they wont cut it, about 375rwkw, a good clutch and also a decent launch control and ecu with a tuner who can sit with you at the track and play with boost control trim on gears, boost control trim on wheel spin, and ignition timing retard on wheelspin, and also the launch control must not spool too much boost off the mark.

you need a 1.6 or lower 60 foot before you will grab it also.

Its not easy to do on a full weight street car, but i never gave up until i cracked it, i ran 10.80 @ 135mph before i gave up.

if you want to run the 10 you need to put in some hard work!

Except it hasn't done a 10 yet :P

I differ in opinion to most people who want to run 10s

A single 10.9999999 is different to a car setup to run half a dozen in a row. That is where car setup is important

I also don't like to see people wanting a 10 sec streeter but not want to drag "race" ie something other than a off street Wednesday night

I understand not everyone wants to cage their car....

If you don't, set it up to run consistent low 11's and hit the track as much as you like

That's gotta be one* of the dumber things you've posted.

*aside from the 2JZ/Supra talk on a RB/Skyline based forum

If someone wants a street car, on DOT radials that can run a 10.

And drive it around daily, for a reasonable budget - who cares about a "real" comp.

That's gotta be one* of the dumber things you've posted.

*aside from the 2JZ/Supra talk on a RB/Skyline based forum

If someone wants a street car, on DOT radials that can run a 10.

And drive it around daily, for a reasonable budget - who cares about a "real" comp.

LOL I agree with that one, that Zebra seriously needs to go back to the zoo! ..Saying after reading some of his posts..>_<

ahhh you guys are f**king retarded >_<

you guys want to spend 11ty $$$$ on getting a car to run a 10...ONCE..because you will be booted...then what....spend more money on changing it to a circuit car

Silly me for thinking people who want a "10 second car" actually want to run 10's more than once.

Its like buying a V8 Commodore.... Its no special supercar out of the factory, not unless you buy something really expensive..

But hey if you want a V8 taxi then thats good for you. On the same token if somebody wants a 10 second skyline for the sake of saying I have a 10 second skyline then good for them too LOL

*aside from the 2JZ/Supra talk on a RB/Skyline based forum

Oh Noez!!!!

God Forbid any variety on the internet....Don't tell me you snatched the rights to "Nissan Skyline" too so you can claim it as your own and make money of others hard work

i thought WSID was introducing the new rule cause heaps of owners of new Fords & holdens where complaining about putting cages in there brand new $80K cars..

most these cars can run 10's for under $5000 of mods..

to run a 10 in a full weight gtst, you will need good tyres, try aim for something better then ET street radials because they wont cut it, about 375rwkw, a good clutch and also a decent launch control and ecu with a tuner who can sit with you at the track and play with boost control trim on gears, boost control trim on wheel spin, and ignition timing retard on wheelspin, and also the launch control must not spool too much boost off the mark.

you need a 1.6 or lower 60 foot before you will grab it also.

Its not easy to do on a full weight street car, but i never gave up until i cracked it, i ran 10.80 @ 135mph before i gave up.

if you want to run the 10 you need to put in some hard work!

Ive gone the easy way and have a C4 and 3800 stall. But dont have the 10 yet but shouldnt be far away :thumbsup:

Most people also don't realise how quick a 10 second car is. Fastest car i've ever been in was my dads R33 with 350rwkw, did a low-mid 11 @ 125mph which was freaking quick. Not saying this about OP, but a lot of guys go from a stock liner and think "oh i want a 10 second car hepa derpa" without knowing how quick it really is.

i thought WSID was introducing the new rule cause heaps of owners of new Fords & holdens where complaining about putting cages in there brand new $80K cars..

most these cars can run 10's for under $5000 of mods..

Nope, they did a backflip on the decision unfortunately

never happen on street tyres

drag radials as a minimum and you would be looking at 550+bhp at the crank to get you a high 10 at around 130mph after lots of practice

Auto or manual?

Lots of practice.... PFFT I did one pass :nyaanyaa: But I guess it wasn't a 10 :pirate:

In a manual, you would need atleast 400rwkw and MT Streets and know how to drive. Really drive.

I had 360rwkw (dyno dynamics) or 410rwkw (dynapac with correction) and yes knowing how to peddle well and smash gears helps

to run a 10 in a full weight gtst, you will need good tyres, try aim for something better then ET street radials because they wont cut it, about 375rwkw, a good clutch and also a decent launch control and ecu with a tuner who can sit with you at the track and play with boost control trim on gears, boost control trim on wheel spin, and ignition timing retard on wheelspin, and also the launch control must not spool too much boost off the mark.

you need a 1.6 or lower 60 foot before you will grab it also.

Its not easy to do on a full weight street car, but i never gave up until i cracked it, i ran 10.80 @ 135mph before i gave up.

if you want to run the 10 you need to put in some hard work!

I don't think you need a lot of the things you have listed >_<

Most people also don't realise how quick a 10 second car is. Fastest car i've ever been in was my dads R33 with 350rwkw, did a low-mid 11 @ 125mph which was freaking quick. Not saying this about OP, but a lot of guys go from a stock liner and think "oh i want a 10 second car hepa derpa" without knowing how quick it really is.

Also on the street a 10sec car isn't really a 10sec car... Unless it's a GTR :)

Edited by SimonR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...