Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bigend%20top.jpg

Top bearing. Ignore the scratches on that photo. It's where we pused the piston and rod out.

Bigend%20bottom.jpg

Bottom bearing.

15 months (10,000 kms approx) of running E85 using 300V 15W-50 oil. Engine was alive for 32,000 kms and used the same oil the whole time. 8000 RPM generally was the shift point but it did see 9000 a few times. They don't look half bad considering the oil pump died and the head is as useless as tits on a bull.

Bigend%20top.jpg

Top bearing. Ignore the scratches on that photo. It's where we pused the piston and rod out.

Bigend%20bottom.jpg

Bottom bearing.

15 months (10,000 kms approx) of running E85 using 300V 15W-50 oil. Engine was alive for 32,000 kms and used the same oil the whole time. 8000 RPM generally was the shift point but it did see 9000 a few times. They don't look half bad considering the oil pump died and the head is as useless as tits on a bull.

and didnt burn a drop of oil its entire life :worship:

and didnt burn a drop of oil its entire life :worship:

I'd say that would have to do with the super tight clearances and the run in :thumbsup:. Spoke to Mik about the run in and it was long hard pulls in 3rd and 4th up to 6500 within 10 kms of being screwed together. He did that every night for a few weeks on Old Pac.

I'd say that would have to do with the super tight clearances and the run in :thumbsup:. Spoke to Mik about the run in and it was long hard pulls in 3rd and 4th up to 6500 within 10 kms of being screwed together. He did that every night for a few weeks on Old Pac.

yeah for sure, was obviously bolted together nicely... stupid pumps :domokun:

Bigend%20top.jpg

Top bearing. Ignore the scratches on that photo. It's where we pused the piston and rod out.

Bigend%20bottom.jpg

Bottom bearing.

15 months (10,000 kms approx) of running E85 using 300V 15W-50 oil. Engine was alive for 32,000 kms and used the same oil the whole time. 8000 RPM generally was the shift point but it did see 9000 a few times. They don't look half bad considering the oil pump died and the head is as useless as tits on a bull.

What happened to the head to make it useless ?

What happened to the head to make it useless ?

Oil pump smashed. Ex cam welded itself to a few cam caps, belt jumped a few teeth and every ex valve got a little frisky with pistons (bent every valve and scored the chambers) . Intake cam is ratto.

Oil pump smashed. Ex cam welded itself to a few cam caps, belt jumped a few teeth and every ex valve got a little frisky with pistons (bent every valve and scored the chambers) . Intake cam is ratto.

Fark...talk about a catastophic chain of events caused by one shit part ,hope it didnt damage the RRR block .

maybe the 15w50 was the key then. I know Midori built my 26 on 10w40 300V and i would think that is a standard weight/viscocity for a street R, and if there are indeed issues of thinning etc, perhaps the 15w50 covers that off and it's ok to run the 300V.

Be interesting to see what Motul themselves think after sending them this info.

maybe the 15w50 was the key then. I know Midori built my 26 on 10w40 300V and i would think that is a standard weight/viscocity for a street R, and if there are indeed issues of thinning etc, perhaps the 15w50 covers that off and it's ok to run the 300V.

Be interesting to see what Motul themselves think after sending them this info.

I would still like to have a sample taken and sent away although after it went bang I wasn't really in the mood! I don't think the amount of metal (or should I say bits of oil pump gear) would give a good and accurate analysis. A susmmary saying "Too much oil pump shavings in oil. May need to check engine" wont tell us much pinch.gif

Maybe chemically the Ester base oil's with alcohol fuels dont mix but changed enough it doesn't become an issue. The longest mine ever went without an oil change was 2000 kms. Track days and dyno tuning it always got new oil.

I would still like to have a sample taken and sent away although after it went bang I wasn't really in the mood! I don't think the amount of metal (or should I say bits of oil pump gear) would give a good and accurate analysis. A susmmary saying "Too much oil pump shavings in oil. May need to check engine" wont tell us much pinch.gif

Maybe chemically the Ester base oil's with alcohol fuels dont mix but changed enough it doesn't become an issue. The longest mine ever went without an oil change was 2000 kms. Track days and dyno tuning it always got new oil.

And you said it wasn't using oil! Man, that's "using" oil. ;)

^^

Does that mean an ester based oil is fine to use with an alcohol based fuel? (getting back on topic)

it's actually more time that's important than k's. if you take your car for a thrash, have a bunch of contamination sitting in the oil, it has time to react with the ester even if it's not being driven. obviously the more k's and the more blow by = more contamination, so it's a mixture of a few elements really. but yeh, from what penrite say, they believe that you will generally need to change oil for other reasons before the ester begins to break down, so with regular changes it is ok. i'm gonna aim to change every few months which will be about 4-6 track days, so should be fine.

i'm gonna aim to change every few months which will be about 4-6 track days, so should be fine.

with how you drive? what kinda oil temps are you seeing at the track?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...