Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bigend%20top.jpg

Top bearing. Ignore the scratches on that photo. It's where we pused the piston and rod out.

Bigend%20bottom.jpg

Bottom bearing.

15 months (10,000 kms approx) of running E85 using 300V 15W-50 oil. Engine was alive for 32,000 kms and used the same oil the whole time. 8000 RPM generally was the shift point but it did see 9000 a few times. They don't look half bad considering the oil pump died and the head is as useless as tits on a bull.

Bigend%20top.jpg

Top bearing. Ignore the scratches on that photo. It's where we pused the piston and rod out.

Bigend%20bottom.jpg

Bottom bearing.

15 months (10,000 kms approx) of running E85 using 300V 15W-50 oil. Engine was alive for 32,000 kms and used the same oil the whole time. 8000 RPM generally was the shift point but it did see 9000 a few times. They don't look half bad considering the oil pump died and the head is as useless as tits on a bull.

and didnt burn a drop of oil its entire life :worship:

and didnt burn a drop of oil its entire life :worship:

I'd say that would have to do with the super tight clearances and the run in :thumbsup:. Spoke to Mik about the run in and it was long hard pulls in 3rd and 4th up to 6500 within 10 kms of being screwed together. He did that every night for a few weeks on Old Pac.

I'd say that would have to do with the super tight clearances and the run in :thumbsup:. Spoke to Mik about the run in and it was long hard pulls in 3rd and 4th up to 6500 within 10 kms of being screwed together. He did that every night for a few weeks on Old Pac.

yeah for sure, was obviously bolted together nicely... stupid pumps :domokun:

Bigend%20top.jpg

Top bearing. Ignore the scratches on that photo. It's where we pused the piston and rod out.

Bigend%20bottom.jpg

Bottom bearing.

15 months (10,000 kms approx) of running E85 using 300V 15W-50 oil. Engine was alive for 32,000 kms and used the same oil the whole time. 8000 RPM generally was the shift point but it did see 9000 a few times. They don't look half bad considering the oil pump died and the head is as useless as tits on a bull.

What happened to the head to make it useless ?

What happened to the head to make it useless ?

Oil pump smashed. Ex cam welded itself to a few cam caps, belt jumped a few teeth and every ex valve got a little frisky with pistons (bent every valve and scored the chambers) . Intake cam is ratto.

Oil pump smashed. Ex cam welded itself to a few cam caps, belt jumped a few teeth and every ex valve got a little frisky with pistons (bent every valve and scored the chambers) . Intake cam is ratto.

Fark...talk about a catastophic chain of events caused by one shit part ,hope it didnt damage the RRR block .

maybe the 15w50 was the key then. I know Midori built my 26 on 10w40 300V and i would think that is a standard weight/viscocity for a street R, and if there are indeed issues of thinning etc, perhaps the 15w50 covers that off and it's ok to run the 300V.

Be interesting to see what Motul themselves think after sending them this info.

maybe the 15w50 was the key then. I know Midori built my 26 on 10w40 300V and i would think that is a standard weight/viscocity for a street R, and if there are indeed issues of thinning etc, perhaps the 15w50 covers that off and it's ok to run the 300V.

Be interesting to see what Motul themselves think after sending them this info.

I would still like to have a sample taken and sent away although after it went bang I wasn't really in the mood! I don't think the amount of metal (or should I say bits of oil pump gear) would give a good and accurate analysis. A susmmary saying "Too much oil pump shavings in oil. May need to check engine" wont tell us much pinch.gif

Maybe chemically the Ester base oil's with alcohol fuels dont mix but changed enough it doesn't become an issue. The longest mine ever went without an oil change was 2000 kms. Track days and dyno tuning it always got new oil.

I would still like to have a sample taken and sent away although after it went bang I wasn't really in the mood! I don't think the amount of metal (or should I say bits of oil pump gear) would give a good and accurate analysis. A susmmary saying "Too much oil pump shavings in oil. May need to check engine" wont tell us much pinch.gif

Maybe chemically the Ester base oil's with alcohol fuels dont mix but changed enough it doesn't become an issue. The longest mine ever went without an oil change was 2000 kms. Track days and dyno tuning it always got new oil.

And you said it wasn't using oil! Man, that's "using" oil. ;)

^^

Does that mean an ester based oil is fine to use with an alcohol based fuel? (getting back on topic)

it's actually more time that's important than k's. if you take your car for a thrash, have a bunch of contamination sitting in the oil, it has time to react with the ester even if it's not being driven. obviously the more k's and the more blow by = more contamination, so it's a mixture of a few elements really. but yeh, from what penrite say, they believe that you will generally need to change oil for other reasons before the ester begins to break down, so with regular changes it is ok. i'm gonna aim to change every few months which will be about 4-6 track days, so should be fine.

i'm gonna aim to change every few months which will be about 4-6 track days, so should be fine.

with how you drive? what kinda oil temps are you seeing at the track?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
    • I have an elite 2500 running an adapter harness on an rb25de neo r34. I took the butterfly out and removed all that junk. But I also went Plus+t at the same time. The butterfly thing works in reverse to the boost solenoid on the Gtt if that makes sense
    • yeh they are 235/45/17 up front and 255/40/17 in the rears. I still didn't get my answer if i can fit a 18x9 up front. I want to get 4 of this and see if they will fit before committing as they didn't see an 18x8 as an option but there is a 18x9.5 also.   Enkei RS05-RR 18x9 35mm ET 5x114.3 75.0 Bore Matte Gunmetal Wheel
×
×
  • Create New...