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E85/eflex And Oil Choice

SS8_Gohan

By SS8_Gohan,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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iruvyouskyrine
iruvyouskyrine

Been using Penrite 10tenths 15W-50 in my 340,000km RB30 pushing 350+ kw for the last 2 years on E85. Its used for daily/drifting and i don't have an oil cooler and at places like QR it cops 2 full day

kingscorp
kingscorp

Guy's. I have worked in the oil industry for many years, specialising in Automotive, Earthmoving, Transport, Mining and industrial. Also I have been lucky enough to be racing cars since the 1990's C

T04GTR
T04GTR

like mensioned a while ago, when i was with the ute team, we had 7 utes to maintain at one point. back then penrite was a major sponsor so we ran penrite everyhting. engine ware was very good. eng

Posted Images

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

Bigend%20top.jpg

Top bearing. Ignore the scratches on that photo. It's where we pused the piston and rod out.

Bigend%20bottom.jpg

Bottom bearing.

15 months (10,000 kms approx) of running E85 using 300V 15W-50 oil. Engine was alive for 32,000 kms and used the same oil the whole time. 8000 RPM generally was the shift point but it did see 9000 a few times. They don't look half bad considering the oil pump died and the head is as useless as tits on a bull.

GTR_JOEY Grand Master

GTR_JOEY

Posted
Posted

Bigend%20top.jpg

Top bearing. Ignore the scratches on that photo. It's where we pused the piston and rod out.

Bigend%20bottom.jpg

Bottom bearing.

15 months (10,000 kms approx) of running E85 using 300V 15W-50 oil. Engine was alive for 32,000 kms and used the same oil the whole time. 8000 RPM generally was the shift point but it did see 9000 a few times. They don't look half bad considering the oil pump died and the head is as useless as tits on a bull.

and didnt burn a drop of oil its entire life :worship:

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

and didnt burn a drop of oil its entire life :worship:

I'd say that would have to do with the super tight clearances and the run in :thumbsup:. Spoke to Mik about the run in and it was long hard pulls in 3rd and 4th up to 6500 within 10 kms of being screwed together. He did that every night for a few weeks on Old Pac.

GTR_JOEY Grand Master

GTR_JOEY

Posted
Posted

I'd say that would have to do with the super tight clearances and the run in :thumbsup:. Spoke to Mik about the run in and it was long hard pulls in 3rd and 4th up to 6500 within 10 kms of being screwed together. He did that every night for a few weeks on Old Pac.

yeah for sure, was obviously bolted together nicely... stupid pumps :domokun:

ezy_09s Proficient

ezy_09s

Posted
Posted

Bigend%20top.jpg

Top bearing. Ignore the scratches on that photo. It's where we pused the piston and rod out.

Bigend%20bottom.jpg

Bottom bearing.

15 months (10,000 kms approx) of running E85 using 300V 15W-50 oil. Engine was alive for 32,000 kms and used the same oil the whole time. 8000 RPM generally was the shift point but it did see 9000 a few times. They don't look half bad considering the oil pump died and the head is as useless as tits on a bull.

What happened to the head to make it useless ?

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

What happened to the head to make it useless ?

Oil pump smashed. Ex cam welded itself to a few cam caps, belt jumped a few teeth and every ex valve got a little frisky with pistons (bent every valve and scored the chambers) . Intake cam is ratto.

ezy_09s Proficient

ezy_09s

Posted
Posted

Oil pump smashed. Ex cam welded itself to a few cam caps, belt jumped a few teeth and every ex valve got a little frisky with pistons (bent every valve and scored the chambers) . Intake cam is ratto.

Fark...talk about a catastophic chain of events caused by one shit part ,hope it didnt damage the RRR block .

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
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Posted

maybe the 15w50 was the key then. I know Midori built my 26 on 10w40 300V and i would think that is a standard weight/viscocity for a street R, and if there are indeed issues of thinning etc, perhaps the 15w50 covers that off and it's ok to run the 300V.

Be interesting to see what Motul themselves think after sending them this info.

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

maybe the 15w50 was the key then. I know Midori built my 26 on 10w40 300V and i would think that is a standard weight/viscocity for a street R, and if there are indeed issues of thinning etc, perhaps the 15w50 covers that off and it's ok to run the 300V.

Be interesting to see what Motul themselves think after sending them this info.

I would still like to have a sample taken and sent away although after it went bang I wasn't really in the mood! I don't think the amount of metal (or should I say bits of oil pump gear) would give a good and accurate analysis. A susmmary saying "Too much oil pump shavings in oil. May need to check engine" wont tell us much pinch.gif

Maybe chemically the Ester base oil's with alcohol fuels dont mix but changed enough it doesn't become an issue. The longest mine ever went without an oil change was 2000 kms. Track days and dyno tuning it always got new oil.

R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
Posted

I would still like to have a sample taken and sent away although after it went bang I wasn't really in the mood! I don't think the amount of metal (or should I say bits of oil pump gear) would give a good and accurate analysis. A susmmary saying "Too much oil pump shavings in oil. May need to check engine" wont tell us much pinch.gif

Maybe chemically the Ester base oil's with alcohol fuels dont mix but changed enough it doesn't become an issue. The longest mine ever went without an oil change was 2000 kms. Track days and dyno tuning it always got new oil.

And you said it wasn't using oil! Man, that's "using" oil. ;)

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted

^^

Does that mean an ester based oil is fine to use with an alcohol based fuel? (getting back on topic)

it's actually more time that's important than k's. if you take your car for a thrash, have a bunch of contamination sitting in the oil, it has time to react with the ester even if it's not being driven. obviously the more k's and the more blow by = more contamination, so it's a mixture of a few elements really. but yeh, from what penrite say, they believe that you will generally need to change oil for other reasons before the ester begins to break down, so with regular changes it is ok. i'm gonna aim to change every few months which will be about 4-6 track days, so should be fine.

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

i'm gonna aim to change every few months which will be about 4-6 track days, so should be fine.

with how you drive? what kinda oil temps are you seeing at the track?

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