Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As I said I'll be impressed if it happens. Effectively the only aero allowed under club rules is a big wing so it means most of this time has to come from a combo of good grunt and exceptional pedal skills rather than from some computer generated design that maximizes potential grip.

Anyone have a picture of this EVO?

I reckon alot of the cars that turn up in Clubsprint will be technically illegal. I doubt anyone will pull them up for it though.

Clubsprint Rules

Vehicle Modifications

All Vehicles must be presented as manufactured unless stated below.

Body

• All convertible type vehicles must be equipped with a hard top or a roll cage that complies with AASA Standing Regulations.

• The use of a Carbon or FRP Bonnet and Rear Wing is permitted.

• The use of an FRP Front Bar, Rear Bar, Side Skirts and Bonnet is permitted.

• Carbon and FRP Guards, Doors, Boot Lids and Roofs are NOT permitted, unless fitted as OEM equipment from the manufacturer.

That means no splitters, no canards, no diffusers, no lightweight or non OEM mirrors, no widebody or flares - hell, technically even lipping would be illegal! A quick look on WTAC's Clubsprint page shows pics of cars entered with all those things! lol

Edited by hrd-hr30
  • Replies 742
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I reckon alot of the cars that turn up in Clubsprint will be technically illegal. I doubt anyone will pull them up for it though.

That means no splitters, no canards, no diffusers, no lightweight or non OEM mirrors, no widebody or flares - hell, technically even lipping would be illegal!

No big rear wing either as they will not be presented as manufactured, or is this contradicted below when Rear Wing is mentioned ?

Depends how you read I suppose ?

I remember reading somewhere that the Cyber Evo wouldn't conform to any regulations for any form of racing, it's that sparse on for safety......

In regards to Clubsprint, it's a joke they can do 39's. There should be no aero allowed and they should all be factory bodied. Call if Production if you must. Even the aero in Open will be over the top this year, and dangerous as everyone is hell bent on weight reduction. That Evo wing fail won't be the last over the next few weeks...

The lines between classes is becoming greyer every year.

my 2 bobs worth!

It would be nice if there was some ruling on aero for Open maybe keep it to CAMS sports sedan specs or put a 200mm limit on wings, canards and splitters - diffusers like the CAMS Supersprint series have done and leave Pro to the wild looking aero cars. There my thoughts on the matter....

I reckon alot of the cars that turn up in Clubsprint will be technically illegal. I doubt anyone will pull them up for it though.

That means no splitters, no canards, no diffusers, no lightweight or non OEM mirrors, no widebody or flares - hell, technically even lipping would be illegal! A quick look on WTAC's Clubsprint page shows pics of cars entered with all those things! lol

This car was running in clubsprint back in 2010 when i was running my R32 GTR, some how got away with the it as it was made from alloy not carbon?

post-36356-0-54511300-1343102363_thumb.jpg

It would be nice if there was some ruling on aero for Open maybe keep it to CAMS sports sedan specs or put a 200mm limit on wings, canards and splitters - diffusers like the CAMS Supersprint series have done and leave Pro to the wild looking aero cars. There my thoughts on the matter....

That'd be a good starting point I'd reckon...

No doubt in my mind Pro should be clearly different to Open.

hehe they asked me to crew for them this year. I don't know what the wording of the rules were in 2010, but in 2012 regardless of material used splitters, canards and diffesuers are not permitted in Clubsprint according to the rules published on the WTAC website. As I said before, I doubt there will be any enforcement of the rules - that's not what WTAC is about. The rules have always been broken since day 1 in WTAC and the organisers don't care.

Cool - if the rules are more just guidelines then I'm running slicks :)

Actually it's kinda disappointing - only because the crash I had earlier this year has left me with a dented / poked roof, so I was going to put a CF wrap over it to a) try and hide the dents and b) cause a shit stir about having a CF roof! :)

In all seriousness if this is the car and it can run a 39 in this guise on street rubber then all kudos to them. It will be one of the many things I'm looking forwards to seeing in a few weeks time.

It looked to have a cyber front end in the other pics.

I dont mind what Pro does, but Open should have restrictions on aero.

My idea is no flat floor between rear firewall and rear diff

Difusser can come any higher than the height of the rear tyre ( stop those super duper rear difussers like the CRX, Berry and MCS cars)

Front splitter can only protrude a certain amount past the headlights

Splitter can't be wider than the tyres

Canards cant be wider than tyres

these rules would keep the cars looking like cars, which is the bet thing about Open class.

Clubsprint should be about what is street legal, or easily modifiable for track use on a weekend. Rear wings whatever, but canards and front splitters should be banned. Over fenders aren't so bad as heaps of people have them on street cars, but factory metal except bonnet

I dont mind what Pro does, but Open should have restrictions on aero.

My idea is no flat floor between rear firewall and rear diff

Difusser can come any higher than the height of the rear tyre ( stop those super duper rear difussers like the CRX, Berry and MCS cars)

Front splitter can only protrude a certain amount past the headlights

Splitter can't be wider than the tyres

Canards cant be wider than tyres

these rules would keep the cars looking like cars, which is the bet thing about Open class.

Clubsprint should be about what is street legal, or easily modifiable for track use on a weekend. Rear wings whatever, but canards and front splitters should be banned. Over fenders aren't so bad as heaps of people have them on street cars, but factory metal except bonnet

Overfenders are out for club atm, as u need to run metal gaurds. Although metal overfender I suppose...

I think that should stay, else u have club sprint running 295 rubber.

The only issuse is that some cars come with a flat floor from the factory, one in all in surely is the fare thing to do?

I'd like to see no canards in club and a restriction on front lip length in both club and open classes. Also a min height in club. Maybe topgear speed bump test, lol. If the cars are to be 'street', surely u have to be able to drive them, well on the street.

rules will always be hard to police and there will always be people that take it to the letter of the law like what we have seen in F1 with many teams over the years and in any number of motorsport series. As an example andrew simply above with the splitter width and length you have specified you could simply (taking it as you have written it down) move the headlights and run wider wheels or spacers to get a larger splitter.

rules will always be hard to police and there will always be people that take it to the letter of the law like what we have seen in F1 with many teams over the years and in any number of motorsport series. As an example andrew simply above with the splitter width and length you have specified you could simply (taking it as you have written it down) move the headlights and run wider wheels or spacers to get a larger splitter.

Lol, yep

Thats why you use a set of rules like the CAMS 3D Sports Sedan Coachwork and Aerodynamic section 3.

For the guys that don't know them have a read, yes some of the things can be removed from that list to suit time attack but very good base to start with...

http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/02_race/d.%203rd%20Category/RA22_Group_3D_2012-1.pdf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...