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Running In Oil

JustinP

By JustinP,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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abr33 Proficient

abr33

Posted
Posted

Depends, has your bottom end been blue printed?

And was your block diamond honed?

If both are yes, you dont need to run it in. by the time you've driven it to dyno, its run in. I am using redline 15/50 in mine. it'll do a few hundred kms then ill dump it. (into old work ute)

However if its been done with a stone, yep mineral oil will be the go

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abr33 Proficient

abr33

Posted
Posted

Im using it for 1000kms... prob less. My engine is blue printed and diamond honed. no run in. i will take it easy on it for a bit though. When you spend 20k on an engine why save a hundred bucks on using shit oil... If your block is'nt diamond honed then yes use mineral and run it in. And a good mineral at that. teehee.gif

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Gerg_R31 Mentor

Gerg_R31

Posted
Posted

honed with either diamond or grit based stones are irrelivant for this topic,

if the bores have been followed with plateu stones or a bottle brush hone, then THAT will reduce the wear in time as well as remove any roughness and folded metals in the cross hatch. Diamond stones wear slower during the machining process and in the long run are cheaper for the machinist, (i.e grit stones do 30 bores and diamond stones do 200 bores) plus its easier for them as they dont have to try to compensate by minipulating the honing procedure, if they are using unevenly worn stones. Only benifit of a 325-500 grit diamond stone over a 400-600 grit based stones is the diamond leaves a slightly better RA rating

but yeah + 1 to mineral oils at first

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Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

always run a motor in reasonably hard (ie about 50-70% load with little or no boost), up to about 70% of max revs. And never let the motor idle or run at the same revs for a long time.

The days of doing 5000klm on 10% throttle are long gone. Tolerances on a modern motor are much tighter and more accurate, and everything is over very quick.

Personally I:

1. Unplug the CAS, and crank on the starter until there is some oil pressure

2. Run the motor at idle until the thermostat opens. Check there are no water leaks. About 5 min.

3. Drive it to a dyno and run it in for 100klm, or do 200ish klm on the road. Run it at medium load with no boost, regularly varying revs.

4. Drop the oil and change the filter, this removes 90% of anything you missed in the cleaning.

5. Run another 1000-4000klm on mineral oil depending on if it's a race or street motor (change the race motor to synthetic earlier).

6. Compression test. Be happy about the results. Enjoy

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GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Im just curious. How do you load up the engine to 70% with no boost?

Light throttle and extend the revs between changes.

As an example go redline 1st gear and keep it off boost, you will find its far from impossible and is extremely good for pissing off people giving you hoon pinkys for having a 'loud muffler'.

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