Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

i got a quote from Jem in ingleburn for $2650 to install and tune Haltech ultimate pro in my r33 gtst. I am getting rid of the air flow meter

and the old setup with emange. i do have stage 2 modifications and just want some opinion. Even better a group install to reduce the cost.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389022-haltech-tuners-quote/
Share on other sites

Every car is slightly different, so whatever you get quoted could quite possibly be very different to what someone else will be quoted due to mods, condition of car (will any other work be required to make sure it's running at its best before and after the tune), accessories fitted (different injectors, fuel pumps, surge tanks, etc.).

gts-t -> i wouldn't bother with the haltech unless you have a stupid amount of power or are extremely anal about your fuel/air ratio. Buy a power FC or link G4 ( i have one that im willing to part with :-) ).

It will save you money and much more people are around to dyno tune them.

gts-t -> i wouldn't bother with the haltech unless you have a stupid amount of power or are extremely anal about your fuel/air ratio. Buy a power FC or link G4 ( i have one that im willing to part with :-) ).

It will save you money and much more people are around to dyno tune them.

tell me more cost install and tune and reliabilty. i just want to get rid of the afm too many issues.

thanks

tell me more cost install and tune and reliabilty. i just want to get rid of the afm too many issues.

thanks

Power FC is good, but Haltec is better in most ways. Hower from reading this forum and my own experiance Haltech do tend to be a little picky if you have electrical issues (one unit will work fine in one car but in another it can become more difficult).

I would not buy a power FC if you want to remove AFM's though. The basic model does not allow it and the dejetro can apparently be a pain to tune and costs as much as a new Haltech/Vipec.

Don't pay stupid amounts of money for this stuff unless you are going for a full house drag engine.

I have an RB25DET in my HR31 and have just had a Z32/Nistune installed and dyno tuned for $800. Picked up another 30Kw and it has everything you need for a full motor upgrade.

Uses the AFM though. I agree it would be nice to get rid of it but not for another $2000!

What's wrong with the AFM? What's so stupid about it? I prefer AFM tuning over MAP because you don't have that untunable spot between -ve and +ve manifold pressure. If you don't run silly useless BOVs I can't see why the AFM is such a problem. Even so, you can easily compensate for it with the fuel deceleration adjustment.

I just paid $1500 - Instal and tune Haltech Sports 2000 from scratch. Zip programming on the unit.

That's in the ACT so your being ripped.

Appologies if that is purchase, install and tune - then it's an awesome price.

  • 2 months later...

Appologies if that is purchase, install and tune - then it's an awesome price.

It WILL be purchase and install as i have a quote for the PS2000 completely wired into my R34 with wideband and tune and its not much more than the pricing above...

JEM are one of the best Haltech tuners around and if you want a premium job that you will be happy with i suggest you spend the money once and do it right.

I had a Power FC and had no issues with it but ditched it in favour for the Haltech due to the mods and E85 etc... But for most road cars a Power FC will do the job fine.

I have done so much research on ECU's lately and all seem to have heaps of PROS and not many CONS, but it all depends on the application you want it for i guess.

The guys at JEM have done a few mates cars now and will be doing mine and a couple of others very soon, we drive 3hrs just to get there simply because they are so helpful, pricing is good and they have an awesome reputation.

Adam is one of the best when it comes to Haltech from everything i've been told and the mates that have gone have been REALLY happy :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...